MILAN — Manifattura Paoloni is reorganizing its in-house brands’ portfolio to meet the new needs of the market.
The Italian fashion company, which was previously focused on the production of jackets and outerwear for other brands, is introducing labels offering garments with a casual, street appeal, as well as updating its established Manuel Ritz label, formerly rooted in formalwear.
In particular, Manifattura Paoloni, which also controls 50 percent of MSGM, the brand founded and designed by Massimo Giorgetti, has introduced MR*73, a new men’s streetwear and sportswear label, with the fall 2021 season.
“This is a real novelty for us, since we come from the world of formalwear,” explained Manuel Ritz brand manager and member of the Manifattura Paoloni board Diletta Paoloni. “It’s been a while since we started considering entering the streetwear category, but the COVID-19 emergency definitely accelerated the process. The world of fashion is surely going through a process of casualization and we couldn’t not accept this new challenge.”
MR*73, whose name highlights the origin of the company as a manufacturing firm and celebrates Diletta’s father, president Michele Paoloni, who joined his family’s business in 1973, will make its debut in 30 stores — mainly in Italy — at the end of June when the brand will also introduce its online store.
“Starting from the spring 2022 season, we plan to create two smaller collections a year that will be enriched by seasonal drops,” explained Paoloni, adding that MR*73 targets mainly high-end wholesale partners with a significant fashion quotient. The label’s fall 2021 collection will retail from 45 euros for T-shirts to 450 euros for outerwear pieces.
Paoloni believes thinks that the brand has great potential, especially in Northern Europe, “which is a very active market for streetwear,” she noted.
At the same time, Manifatture Paoloni is relaunching one of its brands, Guy Rover, which previously offered formal shirts. Leveraging the company’s manufacturing expertise, Guy Rover offered a concise lineup of five iconic outerwear pieces for fall 2021, introducing a range of performance fabrics, combining an urban, easy-chic look with functionality.
“For spring 2022, we will develop the same concept, focusing on three styles crafted from different materials, from ultra light to warmer,” said Paoloni.
The company is also working on updating the offering of its biggest in-house brand, Manuel Ritz, which accounts for almost 50 percent of Manifatture Paoloni’s business and is present in around 600 stores, 70 percent of them located in Italy. The brand also operates a store in Milan’s Brera district.
“In the past few seasons we introduced more casual garments, while previously the brand was focused on pants and jackets,” explained Paoloni, adding that Manuel Ritz will present a denim and sportswear capsule for spring 2022. In the meantime, on June 18, the label will debut on its online store — whose sales grew 50 percent in 2020 compared to the previous year — a capsule dedicated to athleisure wear. “In conjunction with the launch on our online store, we will also propose it to our main clients, which will be able to order it and have it immediately available in their shops,” Paoloni said.
A traditional men’s brand, Manuel Ritz is also expanding into women’s wear. “We started releasing small women’s collections three years ago and now we are slowly enriching them with new categories,” said Paoloni. “As it’s happening with the men’s line, we are juxtaposing more casual styles to our signature offering of jackets and suits.”
Manifattura Paoloni, which also operates the Paoloni men’s formalwear brand, saw its revenues decrease 30 percent in 2020 due to the coronavirus pandemic. In 2019, the company generated sales of 39 million euros.