PARIS — Pitti Uomo is in for some Scandi-cool fever with 17 Nordic brands set to participate in the ninth edition of the Guest Nation section of the Florence-based men’s wear trade show. The space is located in the Arena Strozzi at the site’s Fortezza da Basso.
The selection, made in collaboration with Danish trade show Revolver, spans fledgling brands such as Forét, a unisex label working primarily with organic cotton; Tonsure, founded by buzzy talent Malte Flagstad, and sustainable denim label Blanche, as well as established players like Norse Projects, Hope and Filippa K.
Christian Maibom, founder and creative director of Revolver, said the selection was based on the brands’ emphasis on factors including quality, design signature and sustainability. “At the same time, we believe that this selection strongly represents the span of Scandinavian designer-driven men’s wear fashion,” he said.
For Lapo Cianchi, director of communication and special events at Pitti Immagine, the lineup demonstrates “how Scandinavian fashion boasts some of the main factors of success for forward-looking research.” He cited the region’s simplicity of design, a modern-yet-timeless attitude, attention to quality and a focus on sustainability throughout the production chain. “And then the importance given to features such as comfort and functionality makes these collections extremely topical today,” he said.
Here, WWD profiles a selection of the brands due to show in the space.
Designer: Malte Flagstad
Backstory: Founder Malte Flagstad, an MA Central Saint Martins graduate, worked in the studio of Maison Margiela before launching his label in 2013. The emerging men’s wear brand went on to scoop the International Woolmark Prize European Finals in 2016, with judge Neil Barrett flagging the label’s potential for the men’s contemporary market.
Key items/signatures: Teddy and bomber jackets and oversize shirts.
Price points: Prices range from 60 to 900 euros.
Biggest misconception about your country: “That we are all two meters tall, have blonde hair and eat at Noma all the time.”
Brand: Hope Stockholm
Designer: Frida Bard
Backstory: Founded in 2001 by friends Ann Ringstrand and Stefan Söderberg, Hope’s honest and direct design aesthetic mixes contemporary tailoring and utilitarian influences. Since 2017, all of the brand’s garments carry both men’s and women’s sizing — a way to encourage people to explore the range free of conventional gender-based norms.
Key items/signatures: Tailoring and utilitarian wear with key items such as trousers, shirts and outerwear.
Price points: Prices range from $65 for a T-shirt to $600 for outerwear.
Biggest misconception about your country: “That there are polar bears strolling through the streets.”
Brand: Johannes Adele
Founders and creative directors: Johannes Leijonberg and Adèle Gillardeau
Backstory: The Paris-based brand launched in 2015, four years after its founders met in Antwerp working for Ann Demeulemeester. Leijonberg hails from Jämtland in northern Sweden and Adèle Gillardeau is French, with influences from the couple’s respective cultural heritage feeding the label.
The label’s logotype, consisting of the initials “A” and “J” written in Morse code, says much about the brand, whose philosophy is based on stepping back and allowing time for the design messages to filter through.
The marketing of the apparel is transparent: from where the garments are made to the provenance of fabrics. The atelier is located in a small town in the South of France, far from the noise of the fashion capitals, with collections hooked on a balance of modern and traditional tailoring.
Key items/signatures: The label’s elk leather pieces and kimono trenchcoat.
Price points: A classic shirt retails for 120 euros, a suit jacket 580 euros, and an elk leather hoodie for 1,100 euros.
Biggest misconception about your country: “Everybody thinks Swedes only drive Volvos. It’s not true, they drive Saabs, too.”
Founder and designer: Mette Fredin
Backstory: Headed by Mette Fredin and commercial director Melissa Bech, this fledgling label on the rise specializes in sustainable denim in a wide range of cuts and washes, with an accompanying ready-to-wear collection focused on substance, quality and fit. Everything is made locally in Copenhagen using deadstock and Global Organic Textile Standard–approved fabrics, including cashmere, pure merino and leather. The label is the only Danish women’s wear brand showing in the Scandinavian Manifesto space.
Blanche works with the Moda Operandi, Tomorrow Showroom and Freudian Kicks agencies.
Key items/signatures: Sustainable denim, sustainable suits and rtw.
Price points: Prices range from 100 euros to 300 euros for jeans, and from 180 euros to 500 euros for the rtw items.
Biggest misconception about your country: “That we all know each other by name because we live in a small country.”
Brand: Filippa K
Founder and creative director: Filippa Knutsson
Backstory: Built on the core values of style, simplicity and quality, Filippa K arose from a kitchen table project of founder Filippa Knutsson to become a pioneering brand that helped define Scandinavian fashion.
Key items/signatures: Offering a clean, casual, timeless aesthetic ranging from tailored silhouettes to versatile items, the collections favor circular design in line with the brand’s holistic approach to business and support of mindful consumption. Key pieces include the trenchcoat, the cashmere sweater, smart tailoring, the white shirt, knits and fashion basics.
Price points: The brand’s positioning is affordable luxury, with prices ranging from $40 for a T-shirt to $800 for outerwear.
Biggest misconception about your country: “Probably that we are not Switzerland and not everyone is blonde.”