Paul Helbers, best known for his five-year stint as men’s designer at Louis Vuitton under then-artistic director Marc Jacobs, is preparing to launch a label under his own name for fall.

Called Helbers, the edited 20-piece collection will be presented in Paris during Men’s Fashion Week in January.

Since leaving Vuitton in 2011, Helbers has been consulting creative director with several brands, including a women’s ath-leisure brand called Callens while “concentrating on constructing a new brand.”

He said that while he could “wait forever” preparing for the line’s debut, he finally decided to take the plunge now, knowing that it would be easier to sell to target retailers in the U.S., Europe and Asia by producing an actual collection rather than using a concept board.

Helbers will be a functional urban line that has the “imperfection of artisanal craft” and offers the “contrast between rough and refined,” the designer said. The collection has an “unpolished elegance” designed to take the wearer seamlessly from “work to weekend.”

What that translates into is an unconstructed peacoat; a cashmere jersey with nylon inserts; a wool-silk-cashmere overcoat with a quilted lining; an anorak with cotton sleeves, leather patches and shearling details, and two-button notch-lapel suits with a slim fit that are “not exaggerated.” A shoe and a bag will also be offered.

Helbers was in New York having preliminary meetings with high-end retailers to drum up demand for the line which will be shown at the company’s Paris showroom from Jan. 24 to 28.

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