Aldo Maria Camillo

After two years spent putting on paper his creative ideas, Aldo Maria Camillo is ready to launch his namesake label with a runway show at Florence’s Stazione Leopolda venue on Jan. 10.

“There is no marketing plan behind this project, no business analysis, just the desire to express my personal vision, which actually took shape while I was working for other brands,” the designer said. “My goal is to not fit in, to not follow micro or macro seasonal trends.”

A graduate of New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, Camillo kicked off his career in 2003 as an assistant designer at Valentino. Three years later, he was tapped as senior men’s designer in Ermenegildo Zegna’s sartorial department, which he left in 2009 to return to Valentino as design director of the men’s line. In 2012, Camillo moved to Paris to join Cerruti as creative director of the brand, which he helped reposition in the luxury segment. In September 2016, he was hired by Berluti as creative consultant working in collaboration with Haider Ackermann.

“Since I left Berluti, I focused on my own brand and finally thanks to the support of Pitti Immagine what was just a project is becoming something real,” said Camillo, who stressed the fact that his collections will be entirely made in Italy. “This fact actually defines the positioning of the brand but at the same time it reflects my personal professional background.”

A detail from Aldo Maria Camillo debuting collection

A detail from Aldo Maria Camillo debut collection.  Sata Imloul

A deep study of proportions and silhouettes sits at the core of the label, as Camillo explained. “I think that a men feels beautiful and confident when his clothes are cut to exalt his body. I put a lot of effort to draw the right lines. There won’t be exaggerated volumes, but shapes feeling natural, elegant and adding a touch of sensuality.”

Sitting at the crossroads between traditional sartorial labels and high fashion brands, the Aldo Maria Camillo firm aims to deliver collections where “tailoring is made more free-spirited and intriguing,” Camillo said, adding that his brand targets “men who know fashion and are aware of the offering on the market, but who don’t feel confident at buying the big fashion brands but are looking for more niche, discreet products.”

While he said his first collection is not focused on a single theme, Camillo revealed that some of the pieces are inspired by still undisclosed movie and music characters.

A detail from Aldo Maria Camillo debuting collection

A detail from Aldo Maria Camillo debut collection.  Sara Imloul

The collection debuting this month uses only natural fabrics, including wool and cotton, which are sometimes washed and manipulated to obtain tactile effects. “I like to give the impression that clothes move with the body and accompany people season after season,” the designer said.

The color palette focuses on different tones of gray, blue and black, juxtaposed with brighter accents.

Camillo is still evaluating distribution. “We have been contacted by some multi-brand showrooms, but we are also considering handling sales internally,” he said. “The goal is to enter only those stores which are able to interpret our vision and which really care about the brand.”