PARIS — Add one more name to the Paris men’s ready-to-wear roster: Rochas, which is dipping back into the category after a 22-year hiatus.
This story first appeared in the September 8, 2016 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Béatrice Ferrant has been named artistic director of the line by the Inter Parfums-owned house. Her first collection for Rochas will be shown in Paris in January, according to Philippe Benacin, chairman and chief executive officer of Inter Parfums SA.
“I immediately liked Béatrice’s constructed style tinged with a touch of rock,” he said, describing the positioning as “formal-casual.”
The executive told WWD that the time is right to launch fashion in-house for Inter Parfums, which will gain hands-on experience with a design studio and related suppliers.
Ferrant has since 2003 served as artistic director of her own label, Lefranc Ferrant, which bills itself as “easy executive couture.” Since 2007, it has been holding fashion shows, as an invited member, during couture seasons. The label counts one freestanding boutique on the Left Bank of Paris.
Ferrant has also served for three years as artistic director of Leucothea, the Hong Kong-based fashion and jewelry brand. Past positions have included serving as artistic director for Sanli women’s wear between 2011 and 2013 and as couture designer for Basic Editions in the same time frame, according to her LinkedIn profile.
She was educated at the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne between 1986 and 1989.
As reported, Inter Parfums finalized the acquisition of Rochas’ fragrance and fashion business from Procter & Gamble in May 2015. The activity was purchased for $108 million, excluding inventory, and financed by a 100 million euro, or $112.5 million at current exchange, loan repayable over five years.
Rochas women’s wear, which is sold in about 200 multibrand stores around the globe, posted sales of 1.1 million euros, or $1.2 million at average exchange, in the six months ended June 30. The ambition is to raise that level to 10 million euros to 12 million euros, or $11.3 million to $13.5 million at current exchange, according to Benacin.
Since being acquired by Inter Parfums, various Rochas fashion-related licenses have been discontinued. Those that were maintained include that for women’s ready-to-wear, which was renewed through 2018 with Onward Luxury Group, whose creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua will continue spearheading Rochas women’s rtw.
The license for watches is with TMS Group and for eyeglasses, L’Amy. Meanwhile, Japan’s Itochu boasts three Rochas licenses: for its second women’s rtw line, men’s made-to-measure fashion and scarves.
Rochas fragrances in the first half registered sales of 13.7 million euros, or $15.3 million at average exchange, primarily in the Spanish and French markets. Seventy percent of the labels’ perfume revenues were generated by the Eau de Rochas scent and 15 percent by Rochas Man.
A new Rochas fragrance line, the first under Inter Parfums’ ownership, is slated for a winter 2017 launch. It will be fronted by Swiss actress Noémie Schmidt.