Timo Weiland is back.
After nearly two years on hiatus, the label created by Timo Weiland, Alan Eckstein and Donna Kang, is relaunching during New York Fashion Week: Men’s.
The spring collection, which will be focused exclusively on a colorful array of men’s suits, is being brought back by Groupe, a retail concept created by James and Gwendolyn Jurney of Seize sur Vingt fame, which bankrolls independent and emerging designers.
The collection will be shown on June 3 during Agentry PR’s New York Men’s Day at Daylight Studios & Location 05, next to Hudson Yards.
In a preview at Groupe, Weiland said that while each of the brand’s founders has moved on to create other businesses, they were eager to work together again on the Timo Weiland line.
Weiland is working with Noah Gellman on The Lead, a consulting/networking company that connects fashion firms with technology providers. Eckstein next month will launch Everyone Wins, a business that creates sustainable apparel by redesigning overstock, and Kang is working with Megan Wall to create Maer, a direct-to-consumer, inclusively-sized evening wear line for women that also launches in mid-June.
“But we’re still a trio,” Weiland said — at least when it comes to the Timo Weiland collection. The business started as a men’s neckwear brand and eventually expanded to include a full range of men’s and women’s wear. The line, which was classic with a twist, was in business for eight years.
The relaunch includes single- and double-breasted suits in colors ranging from red, pink and baby blue to brown, black and ivory. The single-breasted model has patch pockets and a split color-blocked lining. The pants are either flat-front with a straight, classic fit and a slight taper or a wider fit that is “almost a boot cut,” according to Eckstein, and are cropped with a raw hem.
All are in a custom-made twill in 100 percent cotton from Italy and there is no padding in the single-breasted model and only a small bit in the double-breasted. The collection was manufactured in Portugal.
The suits were created in “statement colors” that, while bold, are still “wearable,” Weiland said. They’re intended to speak to the guy who might wear a suit with sneakers, Vans or Dr. Martens.
“We love the suit but wanted to try something more novelty,” Eckstein said. “They’re classic silhouettes that are grown up but still fun.” He said the designs and colors are intended to take a guy from day to night. “We want to wear suits to weddings or to DJ, but in our own way. They’re dress-up with a little flair.”
Instead of creating a full collection, the team opted to focus on a “singular category” and do it well, Eckstein said. So by working with Groupe, which has long-standing relationships with mills and factories — and the money to produce the collection — they were able to achieve a level of quality they never could without a partner, Weiland said.
Retail prices, while not finalized, will be around $880 for a nested suit or $500 for a blazer and low $200s for pants, said the Jurneys.
When the Groupe concept was launched in 2017, the idea was to give new designers, and even students, a platform to sell their wares, said James Jurney. “We did that for a year, but it didn’t work well,” he admitted. So they decided to work with more-seasoned designers who needed financial help. Last season, they supported David Hart, whose tailored and updated basics collection will be launching for fall.
James Jurney said the model allows Groupe to “do all the dirty work” in terms of production and sales, and free up the designers to “be the pure artists.”
In addition to being sold at Groupe’s retail store at 198 Bowery, and its e-commerce site, the collection will also be available for sale to other retailers, said Jurney. In fact, a new Groupe wholesale division was just formed and a sales rep was hired to focus on Timo Weiland and David Hart, he said.
If successful, the Timo Weiland collection will be expanded into other categories beyond clothing in the future, Eckstein said.