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LONDON — British men’s wear designer Martine Rose is determined to build a business on her own terms. The designer, who dropped off the men’s fashion week calendar nearly four years ago and is consulting for Balenciaga, has been presenting her collections — full of oversize silhouettes, reworked fabrics and denim — in a variety of formats. It’s proving successful: Retailers including Matchesfashion.com, Barneys and Selfridges have picked up her line for spring 2017, and she is currently stocked at Opening Ceremony.

“The whole experience is quite an organic one for me, and always has been,” Rose said. “I always try for the

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to reflect the collection as much as possible, so I’ve tried not to show in a formulaic way as it doesn’t always feel relevant for me or for the collection. For fall 2014, I did an installation and a look book online, and then for spring 2015, I just did one look. For spring 2016, I just did a film. So I’ve chosen a really wide, eclectic mix of situations that tell a story, and that is reflected in how it’s shown — catwalk or presentation or film or just images.”

Rose is working on various projects, including consulting with Balenciaga and Napapijri, the casualwear label owned by VF Corp. The designer started working with creative director Demna Gvasalia and his team on the men’s debut for Balenciaga, and continues to consult for the Paris-based company. She was brought by the creative director as “another eye” for the men’s wear lineup.

Rose said she is very involved with the research process as well as initial discussions on the silhouettes. “My job is to challenge,” she said. “There are ideas I would have for myself that wouldn’t be right for the spirit of Balenciaga. So it’s more about getting the balance, and it’s very much about supporting them.”

She said her next signature collection, for fall 2017, will feature more tailoring. “It is something I’ve learned at Balenciaga,” Rose said. “It’s always been a very sacred area. I’ve always been very nervous about it, but from my experience there, I’ve found that it’s just your taste applied onto that medium. So I’ll be exploring that more in certain areas. It should be a sort of familiar development.” Her prices range from 120 pounds, or $150, to 2,000 pounds, or $2,488.

Born and raised in South London, the 36-year-old studied fashion design, graduating from Middlesex University in 2002. She started creating a range of 10 shirts in 2007 before joining the Fashion East collective, where she showed her spring 2010 collection. She had previously worked at Richard Nicoll and Slam Jam.

Rose said Nicoll gave her her first break in 2006, and she worked with him for two seasons. “I really didn’t have any discernible skills. I wasn’t quite big enough for him to hire me as a designer. I couldn’t really pattern cut — definitely not to the standard he needed at that stage. So he hired me as this muse, almost. I’d do anything he needed to do. I wouldn’t even say it was a consultancy. He was throwing me a bone,” she said of the designer who died last month at 39.

“It was just really sweet and generous of him, and our friendship grew and grew from there. At that time, I was just starting my own thing as well. Richard gave me enough confidence. He was such a light and charismatic person. You knew when Richard walked into a room.”

Rose said she’s happy with the way her business is growing. “It feels like where it should be. It’s a nice growth that I can manage. I’m not much of a planner and the whole experience is really organic. I built the brand very much on instinct, which has maybe been a slower way but maybe a more manageable way for me. I build it by what feels right rather than a direct, commercial way on where it should go.”

A NewGen recipient, she was also shortlisted for the LVMH prize last year and worked with a former prize-winner, Thomas Tait, to display her work in Italy as a part of AltaRoma, Rome’s fashion week. Last year, she partnered with the east London design studio Ditto Press, on “Skinhead: An Exhibition,” which featured the Rose pieces that referenced the skinhead culture. She has previously teamed with designers and brands in the past including Been Trill, Timberland and CAT. She attracted a celebrity following, including Rihanna, Drake and Chris Brown with her fall 2014 range, which was inspired by rave and youth culture.

Known for her plays on proportion and for reworking unusual fabrics, Rose’s signature shines through in pieces such as a revamped MA1 bomber jacket or oversize denim jeans. “I think I mesh things together in the collection that makes everything feel slightly odd,” Rose said. “But it’s sort of an odd coherence to the collection, and I think that’s what people like because they find elements of surprise in it.”

Inspired by subcultures such as skinheads or ravers, music has also been a big influence on Rose.

“Growing up, the house was always full of music, reggae and soul and all of that were always a part of the backdrop of my experience at home,” Rose said. “I was really into dance and club music a lot. Now my music taste extraordinarily broad. Duke Ellington gave the best reference [when he said] ‘There’s only two types of music, good music and bad music.’ And I hold that as absolutely true. I like all forms of music. My association with fashion has always been with music. I find them very inseparable to a degree. I’ve always just associated that freedom with expression and communication, I really see them as happy bedfellows.”

A few seasons ago, she recalls listening to William Onyeabor, a Nigerian musician. “It was almost dance music, but way ahead of his time. On the cover, he wore a bell-sleeved satin shirt and that became one of the key pieces of the collection.”

Rose is the youngest member of a large, tightly knit extended family. She said her first fashion memory is watching her cousin get dressed for an evening out. “I remember it being really special,” Rose said. “I had lots of cousins that were into different music, so one was really into rave culture, and my sister was really into Jean Paul Gaultier. I just remember being very excited and I couldn’t wait for this to be my reality when I was young. So it was very linked to musical waves and subcultures.”

Rose won’t be showing during London Collections: Men in January, but said she will be doing appointments in Paris and is still working out details of a London presentation.

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