Jennifer Brachmann returned to the high seas this season with another nautically inspired collection that still kept one foot firmly on terra firma. Navy blue knits, oversize lapels and a gigantic duffle coat were fit for an “arctic exploration,” the designer explained to WWD after her presentation Tuesday. “I also added sportier elements, such as a knitted cotton vest that looks like Neoprene.”
Her “high, high waist” flared woolen pants were a show piece that went a little overboard. Elsewhere, the men’s wear designer demonstrated what she does best: adding architectural details to traditional staples. A square panel on the front of a white cotton button-down shirt was an interesting touch and stopped it from being just another white shirt. The vertical fold detail down the front of tailored pants has undoubtedly become the Brachmann signature, and made an appearance this season on wool-blend pants. Eight of the 12 models were some of Germany’s most well-known young digital influencers, which will no doubt expose the Berlin-based brand to a sizable new online audience.