MILAN — Gucci will cap off the upcoming Men’s Fashion Week in January with a performance event here.
As Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana president Carlo Capasa revealed during a press conference on Wednesday presenting the schedule of the city’s upcoming fashion week, the fashion label — which will return to Milan in February with a coed show after it decamped to Paris last September for one season — will host the “Motus presents MDLSX with Silvia Calderoni” performance event at its Gucci hub headquarters on Jan. 14. The performance, which will be produced by independent theater company Motus and directed by Enrico Casagrande and Daniela Nicolò, will blend a monologue by Calderoni and video projections exploring the notion of gender identity in a play inspired by the 2003 novel “Middlesex” by American writer Jeffrey Eugenides. Capasa dubbed the event “not to be missed,” noting how important it is for Gucci to be part of the official schedule.
Men’s Fashion Week will run Jan. 11 to 14 and while, as reported, the Giorgio Armani brand is the latest to join the likes of Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Salvatore Ferragamo to skip the January shows to host a coed runway event in February, Emporio Armani will return to the men’s calendar. The show will take place at noon on Monday, filling the void left by the Giorgio Armani brand. In September, Armani held a coed Emporio show and performance by Robbie Williams at Linate Airport. In January, the designer is also set to host a still undisclosed exhibition at the Armani/Silos space.
As reported, Moschino — which is accustomed to flying to different locations for its men’s shows, having presented in London, Milan and Los Angeles in the past — also will exceptionally decamp to Rome in January, staging its men’s fall 2019 and its women’s pre-fall 2019 collections with a special runway event on the night of Jan. 8 in tandem with Pitti Uomo at the city’s Cinecittà studios. “I have chosen to show the collection in Rome at the historic Cinecittà studios as the show is an homage to the great Federico Fellini, who filmed some of his most iconic films there,” Scott told WWD. Capasa said “overlapping should be avoided and I would prefer Moschino to show in Milan, but these are stylistic choices, which must be respected. Plus the brand said it’s going to be a social media-heavy event.”
A number of fashion labels will host coed shows in January including Dsquared2, Marcelo Burlon County of Milan, Neil Barrett, Sunnei and M1992 — the brand founded by eclectic designer Dorian Tarantini — among others. The latter will be among the labels supported by the Italian fashion chamber, in keeping with its ongoing attention to upcoming “young talents who are trying hard to find their own space in the fashion scene,” Capasa said.
The president of the Italy’s chamber of fashion also revealed additions to the calendar. They include Italian streetwear brand United Standard; Japanese label Bed J.W. Ford; Magliano founded in 2016 by young designer Luca Magliano, as well as Italy-based Numero 00 and South Korean fashion house Spyder, which will host its first runway show this season.
“Italy is the best, most skilled country when it comes to men’s fashion,” said Capasa, highlighting that men’s wear has been growing 2 percent since 2013 and at a faster pace than women’s, although the latter represents a bigger portion of sales. To wit, Capasa said there are plans to host an event in partnership with ICE, Italy’s trade agency, the Ministry for Economic Development and Confartigianato on the night of Jan. 11 to celebrate Made in Italy production. Although more details on the event were not disclosed, the celebration will follow the Ermenegildo Zegna show, to be held at Milan’s central train station. Blumarine will organize a special event the same night to fete the launch and present the women’s fall 2019 collection of its new Be Blumarine contemporary label, designed by Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez, the founders of the Au Jour Le Jour brand.
“This year confirms the positive trend that Italy’s fashion industry has been set on for the past few years and with the positive results 2018 is expected to show, we are finally overcoming the 2008 economic crisis,” Capasa said, while projecting a year-end growth for the sector, including ready-to-wear, leather goods, textile, leather, footwear, jewelry, eyewear and cosmetics. According to data provided by the Italian fashion chamber, the sector will generate revenues of 89.3 billion euros in 2018, up 2.3 percent compared to 2017. Exports are expected to increase 2.6 percent to 67.1 billion euros compared to 65.4 billion euros in the previous year.
In addition, figures provided by the Camera Nazionale della Moda showed a 2.2 uptick in revenues in the first nine months of 2018, compared to the same period a year earlier.
In the first eight months of the year, exports for the same sectors increased 3 percent lifted by Switzerland, an important logistics hub for luxury goods, up 20.4 percent and China, up 16.9 percent. Asked about the Dolce & Gabbana debacle in China, Capasa said he is “confident the label will be able to regain the market and keep customers as [the designers] have always been great ambassadors of Made in Italy in the world.”
In December, a pessimistic projection on expected orders of fashion goods could cast uncertainties on the first months of 2019, which Capasa attributed to “global political, economic and trade turmoil, [which] could affect the fashion business, one that relies on exports for 80 percent of its revenues,” he noted citing Brexit, the U.S. government trade policies and the social protests in France.