Count John Elliott as the latest American designer making the jump back across the pond to show in Paris.
Although he’s not on the official calendar, the Los Angeles-based Elliott will hold his spring 2023 runway show on the fifth floor of the the Centre Pompidou Paris museum on June 21 at 5 p.m. CET, an open spot between Bluemarble and Georges Wendell on the opening day of the shows.
But Elliott is not the only American in Paris this season. Thom Browne is returning to Paris to show his men’s collection on the closing day, June 26, and Reese Cooper, Amiri, Winnie New York, which just won the 2022 edition of the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, and KidSuper are also on the schedule. This will mark KidSuper’s official debut with an in-person event on the Paris calendar.
Elliott said his brand was on the schedule in 2017 when he presented an Instagram show, which was shot half in Paris and half in Los Angeles featuring models, influencers and celebrities who “passed the baton” to one another and the show was viewed within their profiles. “It was very creative at the time,” he said.
But for the decade that he did hold shows, they were in New York, where they attracted a bold-faced front row of celebrities. “We never made the jump to Paris,” he said, “but as the business has grown in North America, we felt it was the right move to bring it to the biggest stage in the world. We hope we can add something to the week and create some energy.”
The “full-on runway show” will be titled “Leap of Faith,” and will include men’s and womenswear. He wouldn’t tip his hand by offering too many details, but said it will include some “new ideas and categories.”
“It’s very much a commentary on the moment society finds itself in and the brand finds itself in,” he said. “We’re cautiously excited but also superstitious about saying it’s going to be the best collection we’ve ever done. But given the work that the team and I have done over the past two-and-a-half years during the pandemic, it should be worthy of attention.” The show will also be livestreamed on the brand’s website.
Also worthy of attention during Paris Fashion Week is KidSuper.
Colm Dillane, founder and designer of the buzzy streetwear-skewed brand, is not planning a traditional runway show but rather will present 30 looks alongside 30 of his paintings, with each look inspired by the artwork. The invitation will be a paddle, a hint that there will be something a bit different about this show. Dillane revealed that he will be bringing Christie’s auctioneer Lydia Fenet over to Paris to auction off the works during the show. “And if no one bids,” he said with a laugh, “she’ll berate the crowd.”
Dillane said he’s looking at this show as a “social experiment” that will be “quite fun for the crowd. Usually everyone just sits there and takes photos but this way, they can participate.”
The collection will be very KidSuper, he said, “colorful, but even more so than usual with the all-over prints.” There will also be one bag that looks like artist’s canvas with a paint-by-number print on it.
While the bulk of the looks will be menswear, there will be several women’s outfits as well, Dillane said. “Sometimes the allover print on a dress looks nice. And there are only so many men’s suits I can do.”
Dillane had twice in the past asked to be added to the Paris Fashion Week calendar but was “rejected,” he said, prompting him to hold his own shows off-calendar at the same time. “Then I got accepted, but COVID[-19] hit and we were on the calendar but only as a presentation. But now we’re doing a full runway show.”
His show, too, will be livestreamed.
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