Puffers and overshirts were all the rage at Milan Fashion Week, as customers seek comfortable pieces with some fashion cred, and outerwear specialists and fashion brands updated their signature styles with new-gen and oftentimes luxurious fabrics, mixed-media versions and accents of color.
With extensive archives rooted in the best of Americana and workwear, Woolrich continued to reinvent its legacy, adding performance and more contemporary outdoorsy vibes, grounded in its life in nature proposition. For fall the coed collection centered on ‘60s and ‘70s styles taken from a catalogue that combined Western, collegiate and workwear references.
Plaid overshirts revisited with contemporary proportions mingled with a quilted patchwork parka, while field jackets and car coats, among the brand’s hits, were offered in premium versions crafted from Loro Piana Storm System and Vitale Barberis Canonico’s performance fabrics. Building on the success of its Arctic Parka, Woolrich debuted the “Evolution Pack,” comprising five new versions, including in a checkered wool, a camouflage number crafted from ripstop cotton, and a waterproof corduroy option.
Showcased in a glass display with fake snowflakes sprayed to suggest life at high peaks, the Plein Sport fall 2023 collection revisited sportswear with a flamboyant touch, thanks to eccentric prints and vibrant colors, including fluorescent tangerine, acid green and hot pink shades. The men’s collection included puffers with tiger scratch graphics as well as a flashy colorblocking set.
Rooted in the Swiss Alps and best known as a go-to choice for fashionable ski gear, Jetset is increasingly expanding its offering to bring the same combination of style and high performance at any latitude. For fall, puffers with a metallic effect or splashed with a painterly take on camouflage print were flanked with more urban options, including the company’s renditions of shearling jackets to layer over logoed turtleneck knits. Working together with Swiss textile company Schoeller Textil AG, Jetset eliminated all down from its proposition. As an alternative, the brand is working with a technical filling, produced with recycled fibers derived from PET bottles.
Committed to growing its menswear footprint, Add had options catering to a wide net of customers, from the premium range crafted from Loro Piana fabrics, including the high-performance Storm System textile, worked into chic and practical field jackets, to the new lightweight padded outerwear short on quilting and crafted from the breathable Taflight fabric. Natural fabrics were also brought into the performance-leaning collection, with high-tech flannels and wools for refined pieces, with detachable linings and inner shells, meant to offer the same warmth and functionality as puffers.
At Moorer, reinvention was also key as its signature puffer jackets were enriched with details and fabrics traditionally associated with sartorial tropes. Cashmere hooded puffers and mixed-media numbers stood out, the latter including one piece with suede front panels and a recycled shearling collar, as well as Japanese denim and technical fabric styles. They made for the most innovative takes on quilted jackets, which have been making a return on the runway, too.
Fabric exploration sits at the core of Ten C’s fashion offering, as the brand built its appeal on the OJJ fabric. A utilitarian bent defined the fall range, best exemplified in the mixed-media outerwear combining the signature fabric with laminated nylon and nylon Tactel, for example. Playing on offbeat proportions, the brand debuted parkas with oversized hoodies and nylon puffers bearing utilitarian OJJ flap pockets. It also enhanced its sustainable materials sourcing, offering anoraks and overshirts filled with eco-down. The brand marked Milan Fashion Week debuting a capsule collection with hip retailer 10 Corso Como.