Cmmn Swdn, Boramy Viguier and GEYM figure among a selection of rising brands on the week’s official men’s calendar and presentation lineup. And Davide Marello, the former creative director of Boglioli, will unveil his latest project, Davi, which is heavy on printed shirts, in Paris on Thursday.
Undercover, which presented its fall 2018 men’s collection in one of the guests spots at Pitti Uomo in January, will also present on the official men’s calendar for the first time, along with Alyx, which was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2016. Check out a selection of the names set to present.
For their debut show on the official Paris Men’s Week calendar, Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund are doing their bit to protest against the mountain of waste the fashion industry is sitting on; to slow things down again and get back to the roots of fashion.
The show is scheduled to take place Tuesday at the Les Ateliers, the École nationale supérieure de création industrielle, a French design school located in Paris’ 11th arrondissement.
Founded in 2012 in Malmo, Sweden, Cmmn Swdn is based between Sweden and London where it showed for six seasons before moving to present in Paris — their “goal since day one” — two seasons ago.
The brand is known for its progressive sportswear and tailored clothing, often combining the two, and the main idea was to update and recycle unsold stock from past collections, to give them a new lease of life. Examples include updated cropped spins on the brand’s biker jackets, knitwear chopped up and reassembled as appliqués on mesh tops, and a denim jacket laser etched with symbols of mass consumption.
The silhouette, said Hedlund during a preview of the collection, was based on “that slight oddness you find in pre-loved vintage items, with a slight awkwardness in the fit, oversized proportions and longer sleeves. It’s also a way of sharing the message that last season shouldn’t be seen as dated.”
The pair also hooked up with London-based shoe designer Helen Kirkum, who specializes in footwear made from discarded sneakers, on a line of sneakers and shoe-sneakers featuring slightly battered sneaker uppers fused with shoes from past Cmmn Swdn collections.
Added Hedlund: “Obviously, we understand that there’s no way we can create a collection that is 100 percent recycled, but maybe we can start a discussion and see how we all can contribute.”
In launching his Davi line, Davide Marello followed his heart, he said, just as he did when he moved to Paris from Milan. Marello exited his role as Boglioli’s creative director in 2017 after two years at the Italian men’s wear firm, which gave him the opportunity to take the time to question and revisit his priorities.
“It was a matter of now or never. I’ve always wanted to live in Paris and I already speak French, but when you have your circle of friends and habits — and a job that takes up most of your time — you postpone some life-changing decisions,” said the soft-spoken Marello, 38, during a trip to Milan where he still has a home.
After studying fashion design at Istituto Marangoni in Milan, Marello worked at Ter et Bantine, Dirk Bikkembergs, Mila Schön and Giorgio Armani. That was followed by a 10-year experience at Gucci as men’s wear designer with Frida Giannini and later with her successor Alessandro Michele, before being appointed Boglioli’s first creative director in 2015.
In Paris, Marello will show his first collection under the Davi moniker, which is what his friends affectionately call him and which has a “light and French” touch. The presentation with models is scheduled for June 21 in an apartment on 14 Quai de la Mégisserie from 1 to 7 p.m.
“I didn’t have a specific project in mind, but I thought I should dedicate part of my time to something of my own and personal, and I felt I did not want to have regrets later in life — that’s the worst,” explained Marello of his decision to self-finance the venture.
The designer turned his attention to printed shirts. “It’s something that I enjoy and that fascinates me. It’s very special in a men’s wardrobe. I learned that the printed shirt is something that even more classic men look at for a different moment of diversion and fun.”
Marello was set on producing the line in Italy and collaborated with storied Como-based printer Achille Pinto, working on his archives. “I chose a series of prints connected by the fil rouge of art,” he said, naming in particular Giorgio de Chirico and Nicolas de Staël and his “quick brush strokes. I like him a lot for this impulse to transfer emotions.”
Showing one’s personality is a starting point for Marello, “without looking at what others do.” There are several floral patterns, a reminder of a collection of handkerchiefs belonging to his grandmother, who was a seamstress and had an atelier in Asti, Italy. Marello helped her when he was a child and still remembers how she made pleats with special weights and vapor.
“I would hide behind the curtains when customers would come in and I was moved when I read that Gianni Versace also did that [as a child himself with his mother, a dressmaker]. I started designing because of Versace, looking at his designs at the end of the Eighties.”
There are prints of running horses, of wheat spikes and more abstract designs. Of one, Marello said it reminded him of a sunset. “They are like paintings on your body, and you wear each one depending on your mood,” he said.
The shirts, which will retail at below 350 euros, will also help men walk away from their “uniforms and comfort zone, and to play and change,” which is something Marello believes comes easier to women, who can also tweak their appearance with their hair, heels and skirt lengths, for example. He admitted he’s thinking of developing Dami for men and women.
After staging a series of events around Paris since launching for spring 2016, the urban, technical, contemporary men’s wear label cofounded by Claude Sérieux, Charles Gaston-Dreyfus and journalist and consultant Thomas Erber will present its first official collection at the Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers on June 20.
“We haven’t yet had the hype that some brands have had, we wanted to establish the brand first and to perfect the product before talking about it. Now we feel we are ready, the collections are well-balanced,” said Sérieux.
The brand’s name — an acronym for “Go East Young Man” — nods to the 1974 autobiography of United States Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas, which became a symbol for the emancipation of youth.
References include the laid-back California attitude and Japanese design, blending style and performance. All the fabrics are from Japan and Italy and France, and the collections are developed in Europe.
Highlights from the spring 2019 line, which includes Latin American-flavored prints, include an overshirt in a printed micro-pore Dot Air material and matching navy cargo pants. A black-and-white parka in Sympatex, a Gore-Tex-like material, features a strap to attach to the legs when on two wheels. “We want people to comfortable and protected,” explained Gaston-Dreyfus, who is a keen cyclist.
Prior to launching GEYM, he founded Art’n Street, specializing in organic fair trade T-shirts handpainted by Parisian street artists. Sérieux’s professional experience, meanwhile, spans music and fashion. He worked as product director at Paul Smith before being tapped to head up the same role at Yves Saint Laurent, under then ready-to-wear director of men’s collections, Hedi Slimane. He went on to launch his own record label while continuing to consult for brands like Kolor and Y-3.
The brand counts around 18 retailers, with the founders looking to cultivate an exclusive network of partners in key cities around the world.
As reported, the brand will also present a capsule for G Foot, the clothing line of Gorillaz, the British brand cofounded by Damon Albarn and Jamie Hewlett.
“I think I’m a true ready-to-wear designer; I like the idea that it can end up on a rack and someone can be drawn to it. And I love the idea of creating looks with a garment — you can say anything or nothing. A bomber jacket can be a hundred different stories,” said Boramy Viguier, who cut his teeth on the design team of Lanvin’s Lucas Ossendrijver before flying the nest.
A man of contrasts, Viguier, who is passionate about “the product, the construction and the details,” using accent poppers, zippers and pockets on his outerwear, is into things that are “real” and material, perfuming garments with references that slowly filter through. “I don’t want people to get the references of my work instantly. For me the interest, in any artistic field, is where you use references in a way that you lose them,” said the designer, who produces his garments in a small atelier in France. “The purpose of art is to create another reality that takes you back to a better reality.”
Mixing sportswear and workwear influences, with a Western storyline weaving through, items from his spring 2019 line include a parka in a mix of taffeta and corduroy, and shirts and joggers in a stiff cotton-nylon rep.
Each collection sports a different jacquard image as the label, this season’s being based on a burning house. “I suppose it feels a bit more aggressive,” said Viguier.
The presentation will be held Tuesday in a loftlike gallery space at 10-12 rue de la Paix in Paris’ 2nd arrondissement.
Paris Men’s Week will also see the launch of Aisthaet, the personal project of Ludovic Alban, former artistic director of men’s at Carven, who has also worked in the studios of Yves Saint Laurent and Hermès.
Collection zero focuses on six leather outerwear pieces representing six archetypal styles including a blouson, a leather, a fleece hoodie, a parka and a trench.
The pieces are produced in a high-end Paris atelier, with a selection of colors and materials to choose from. Prices start at 3,900 euros for a blouson.
A service offering personalized versions of three of the models will be added in July.
The brand will present at Studios Vosges on June 21 and 22.