Designer: Brunello Cucinelli
Inspiration: The luxury label found the inspiration for its new collection in the elegance of the Fifties. Calling the lineup “Gentleman at Ease,” Cucinelli offered a relaxed take on classic tailoring. The brand, which this season enlarged its booth at Pitti Uomo, returned the focus to its wide offering of suits, which ranged from effortless-chic styles targeting the new generation of men to evening options. In keeping with this renewed attention on suits, Cucinelli recently introduced in key stores a made-to-measure program that enables shoppers to create customized tailoring styles while experiencing the brand’s Italian lifestyle in dedicated areas offering high-end facilities and services.
Key Styles: In the suiting range, while jackets were cut close to the body, Fifties-inspired high-waisted pants with double pleats were among a selection of wider, comfortable silhouettes. Fabrics spanned from traditional wools and cashmeres to flannels, corduroy and velvet. Knitwear took center stage with cozy crewneck and V-neck sweaters, sometimes embellished with sporty-chic tennis details that showed rich melange effects. The color palette focused on neutral tones of gray, blue and beige, enriched with accents of warm dark red and deep purple hues. — Alessandra Turra
Designer: Alessandro Sartori
Inspiration: Innovation was the key word at Z Zegna, where Alessandro Sartori showcased a high-tech, city-living experience. The world of urban cycling inspired the lineup, where a techno vibe resonated not only in the more sporty garments but also in the elegant pieces infused with sartorial attitude. “By controlling the whole supply chain, we are able to innovate from the creation of yarns to the development of the garments,” Sartori said.
Key Styles: Sleek silhouettes, laser cutting and thermo-stitched details highlighted the high-tech look of the collection. In keeping with the cycling mood, carrot pants featured straps on the legs, while jackets offered reflective inserts. The outerwear ranged from pieces crafted from three-layer fabrics or shiny gabardines offering insulation to a shearling style with the back worked in padded nylon. Jackets also incorporated batteries for recharging mobile phones using a wireless system. Z Zegna Techmerino Wash & Go technology returned in the collection across all the categories, while Sartori debuted the new Maze sneaker, featuring a magnetic closure and a special sole realized in collaboration with Vibram.
Prices: Pants retail between 390 euros and 590 euros; knitwear and sweatshirts from 450 euros to 690 euros; suits at 1,390 euros, while coats are available from 1,090 euros to 1,390 euros. — A.T.
ROSSIGNOL X PHILIPPE MODEL
Inspiration: The French skiwear specialist and high-end footwear label collaborated on a co-branded shoe style combining urban design and craftsmanship. In keeping with a fashion mountaineering inspiration, one of the biggest trends at Pitti Uomo, the two companies mixed an outdoor sensibility with urban functionality.
Key Styles: A lightweight, dynamic running sole is combined with a mountain sport-inspired upper in the footwear style. While the fastening recalls ticking boots, the comfortable padded collar echoes the construction of ski boots. The Rossignol X Philippe Model sneaker style, available in two men’s color combinations — neon green or red mixed with hot pink, blue, white and black — will be available from July in the Philippe Model Paris boutiques in Milan, Rome and Paris, and at the Rossignol flagships in Paris, Oslo, Lyon, Chamonix, Megéve, Crans-Montana and Sankt Moritz, along with selected multibrand shops.
Prices: The sneaker retails at 320 euros. — A.T.
Designer: Andrea Canè
Inspiration: The message of the season was clear from the brand’s installation of a mini ice-skating rink, featuring members of a young ice-skating theater company performing in looks from the collection. “Our themes are always the same: the cold and movement,” said creative brand director Andrea Canè. He coined the term “modern authentic” for the updates on house classics on show, including the buffalo check invented in the 18th century. The house, which recently passed under the control of L-Gam, a Luxembourg-based investment firm backed by the princely family of Liechtenstein, scaled back its use of fur, and upped the wool quotient, for both embellishment and warmth. Canè also experimented with different fillings, with PrimaLoft replacing down on a lot of the jackets, and lighter weights for mid-season styles. There were also two collaborations: a circular economy-themed capsule with Griffin’s Jeff Griffin, including parkas in patchworks of recycled nylon, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), and deadstock fabrics, and a capsule with Beams Plus designed by Daiki Suzuki and produced by Woolrich using its signature materials. The brand also has a collaboration in the pipeline with Stüssy.
Key Styles: New spins on the brand’s arctic parka and mountain jacket, which was strong in the Sixties and Seventies; buffalo check wool shirts and overshirts, and short jackets based on Forties and Fifties archive styles.
Prices: Outerwear ranges from $450 to $2,500. — Katya Foreman
Designer: Dina van Eupen
Inspiration: Art and how much it influences the world, including homages to Klaus Gerwin, the artist behind the brand’s campaigns for years, ran through the offering this season. Fusing the sportswear collection with knitwear, the focus, Dina van Eupen said, is on “super high quality, easy-care pieces mixing quality and the technology of the brand’s sportswear” geared at active modern lifestyles. “We all know that sportswear can be super tacky, but we’re all about understatement,” added the designer. The line also had a strong sustainable bent, with key silhouettes that include a vest with a knitted back panel and sporty front, paired with a long-sleeve Henley in a biodegradable hemp-silk cellulose.
Key Styles: A bomber jacket in a knitted virgin wool, a hi-tech softshell wind-and-waterproof jacket, and looks combining the house’s expertise in knitwear. “Most people don’t know that in the Seventies my mum discovered Giorgio Armani while he was still in fashion school; we did the first collection for Armani, we did Kenzo’s knitwear,” said van Eupen.
Prices: T-shirts retail at 60 euros, with parkas capping at 980 euros. — K.F.
PAUL & SHARK
Designer: Nick Wooster
Inspiration: Influencer Nick Wooster, for his second capsule for the house (the first drew new accounts for the brand including Dover Street Market and Ssense), switched from a techno color palette to a black-and-white filter with pops of color in signature shapes and techniques “in my way for them,” Wooster said.
Key Styles: A three-layer technical sailing jacket with a mix of flag motifs, as well as a range of outerwear that mixed sartorial and hi-tech nods. This included a tweed by British mill Moon with a reflective nylon, camel hair mixed with a reflective check, and shades of black and gray. The brand’s main collection focused on reinterpretations of house icons, such as the fisherman sweater and peacoat, as well as new anoraks in the brand’s patented waterproof Typhoon 20000 treatment.
Prices: The Nick Wooster capsule ranges from 250 euros to 1,800 euros. Prices for the main line go from 150 euros to 1,500 euros. — K.F.
Designer: Konstantin Grcic
Inspiration: Adapting the processes behind industrial design to fashion, the German industrial designer, as the brand’s third collaborator, made function a key part of the collection, with laser cutting and bonding adding to the minimalist aesthetic of the lightweight, streamlined, slim-fit basics. “I conceived it in the same way that I would design a piece of furniture, like a chair. We made mock-ups using a sewing machine in my office workshop. We started by pinning pieces of canvas onto mannequins to represent garments. Making a jacket is really an act of construction. You have to sculpt and mold 2-D materials into a 3-D form. It’s a process I really relate to,” said Grcic. Features in the non-seasonal collection included mobile phone radiation-shielding inner pockets lined with Swiss Shield, a fabric with patented technology to protect from electromagnetic fields, while 96 percent of the collection’s textiles are recycled, purely natural, biodegradable or bio-based.
Key Styles: Highlights included a padded V-neck jacket made from Japanese recycled nylon and pants made from a fabric produced in Germany by Schoeller, using modal with micro technology, a protective, ultra-soft and flexible fiber extracted from naturally grown beech wood. The coats were cut from a breathable and waterproof, triple-layer fabric that is PFC- and PTFE-free, made from recycled plastic bottles and manufactured by German laminate specialists Sympatex.
Prices: The collection ranges from 229 euros for pants to 599 euros for coats. — K.F.
Designer: Enzo Fusco
Inspiration: Blauer picked up on the ecological mood driving collections at the fair.
Key Styles: Puffers made from PET with recycled down; red and blue parkas and sea jackets in a new more comfortable take on the brand’s signature Taslan material, typically used for police uniforms, and bomber jackets in hybrid mixes like down sleeves and shearling bodies.
Prices: The wholesale price range spans 20 euros for a T-shirt to 300 euros for a leather jacket. — K.F.