PARIS — The chaos of the men’s fashion week — the first fully back edition after years of partially online shows — had a palpable air of overwhelm at times. A transport strike didn’t help, which shut down the metro and filled the streets with protesters on day three. It wasn’t lost on the buyers.
“Between men’s fashion week, the Maison & Objet fair, contemporary art events and couture arriving, there was and is a lot going on. Shows, showrooms, dinners, parties — even more than in pre-COVID[-19] times. So it was very soothing to see rather soft, poetic and fluid fashion show settings and visions for fall-winter 2023. There’s a craving for serenity,” said Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Square Berlin.
That played out in the presentations as well. “We’re in a period of uncertainty — economic, environmental — and tellingly this was a season not of grand, artistic statements but of reassuring, cozy comfort,” said Luke Raymond, senior menswear lead at Farfetch.
What was most noted among buyers polled by WWD was the return of suiting and tailoring, a long-gestating trend that has come to the forefront this season. While there were still streetwear elements, many buyers seemed keen to retire the logo and seek out more formal and classic codes. Coats were the most mentioned item from buyers.
The mix of music and spectacle was also noted, as shows seek to stand out on the crowded calendar.
From Louis Vuitton’s first “guest designer” in KidSuper’s Colm Dillane and his extraordinary set designed by Michel and Olivier Gondry and a performance from Rosalía, to his KidSuper show itself — a standup comedy act featuring Tyra Banks, the week was awash in new formats and stunning visuals.
Kim Jones’ Dior and Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe collections proved to be the most popular of the week. Buyers looked to Anderson’s outerwear of voluminous puffers, floor-length tailored cots and exaggerated frock coats. “We know to expect the unexpected and he never disappoints,” said Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at Harrods of Anderson.
Rick Owens was also praised by many, cited for his “mastery of proportion and his singular vision,” said Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.
Newcomer Wales Bonner was also a hit, with several buyers calling her “refined, elegant and elevated” collection one of the best of the week. “The houses should come knocking,” added Raymond.
Amiri and Saint Laurent were also standouts among the week for buyers, while Sacai was praised for its Carhartt capsule.
Justin Berkowitz, Fashion Director, Bloomingdales
Favorite collection(s): Dior, Rick Owens, Pierre Maheo, Wales Bonner.
Best show format: Absolutely loved Lemaire’s uncommon format to display their romantic vision; it was the perfect way to showcase their grounded approach to rich tonal layering.
Top trends: Two of the biggest messages of the week feel in some ways continuations of elements we saw in Milan: pumped up volumes and a return to a more tailored look. In terms of volume, we have seen a significant shift into more relaxed silhouettes – both on top with dropped shoulders and wider shapes and on bottom with much bigger pants. Likewise, tailoring – the return of the jacket and the suit – have been huge messages and will resonate well for the Bloomingdale’s customer who has been looking for a more polished approach to dressing.
Other trends that have been apparent include great novelty knits, with significant texture or interesting intarsia, and a continued explosion of overshirts, in a range of fabrications including leather, denim and wool.
Must-have item(s): If there’s one thing that is a must purchase for next fall, and that we will push at Bloomingdale’s, it’s a new coat – long, wool, and a bit dramatic.
New talent: Relative newcomers to the Paris scene Aura Lee and Winnie both looked strong.
Andrea Burbi, buyer and brand collaboration, Luisa Via Roma:
Favorite collections: I am very attached to Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto and Dries Van Noten. But for this season I would say Casablanca, also considering the precise message that Charaf [Tajer] wanted to give before the show started.
Best show format: KidSuper. People get bored easily nowadays and Colm knows it well. Thanks to his versatility, since last season he proposes fashion shows that are truly something you cannot miss.
Top trends: I saw a lot of layers, going to create large volumes, especially on the bottoms with pants and shorts together or a skirt. Confirmed also the desire for jackets and suits.
Must-have item(s): Skirt. I have already seen a lot in Milan on the street and also here in Paris on the catwalks. Probably an involuntary homage to Vivienne [Westwood].
Budgets up or down: Even for this season we will continue to increase our open to buy.
New talent: I wasn’t particularly impressed by anyone. I’m curious to see how Bluemarble and Hed Mayner will develop since people talk a lot about them.
Impressions of the week: It is a particular historical moment, especially with so many vacant positions at the helm of some fashion houses. Although we don’t talk about it too much, I think that insiders are a little worried about it, waiting for something to happen that can bring some news.
Reginald Christian, men’s fashion market manager, Saks:
Favorite collection(s): Loewe, Bode, Saint Laurent, Dior, Amiri, Ami
Best show format: With electric drums at the center of the room and a standing-only format, the Dries Van Noten show felt like a fashion rave. Charaf Tajer delivered a collection of hope and love at Casablanca. Before the show started, Charaf delivered a sentimental speech encouraging us to seek humanity in all relationships and people.
Top trends: As seen in Milan, the topcoat remains the most important item for the fall season. Sacai and Loewe showcased topcoats in nonchalant silhouettes and upstanding fabrics, offering a versatile assortment for our customers. The trench jacket has been updated to reflect the evolution of our customer’s wardrobe, seen at Lemaire, Ami and Loewe. The return of dressing is another exciting moment for menswear, driven by minimalistic tailoring.
Must-have item(s): A supersized puzzle tote bag from Loewe, a brown embossed suede blazer from Bode and a pair of relaxed pleated trousers from Officine Générale.
New talent: Ernest W. Baker offered unexpected design twists inspired by 1970s fashion that were both contemporary and impressively cool. EgonLab’s collection brought a dynamic perspective to menswear that boldly infused avant-garde with original designs. Hed Mayner delivered a delightful lineup of quaint essentials and breathtaking volumes and shapes.
Impressions of the week: Cultural shifts were seen in Loewe’s unusually fantastic and thought-provoking collection and Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s display of glamorous, sexy pieces as the designer continues to widen the categorization of menswear. Emily Adams Bode Aujla was truly the “American in Paris,” offering an impressive collection of feel-good clothing for Bode that brought the brand’s signature styles like outerwear and relaxed trousers to the next level with impeccable craftsmanship and detail. It was a moving week full of thoughtful design and collections that addressed the aspirations of our modern menswear customers. The live music featured at many of the runway shows this week wrapped art, fashion and commerce together in the best way.
Laura Darmon, buyer director and business development, ENG:
Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, Rick Owens, Givenchy, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Loewe, Wales Bonner.
Best show format: KidSuper, definitely, who delivered his show through a comedy one-man show, a show format which is innovative and of course funny because fashion shouldn’t be taken so seriously.
Marine Serre, who beside the huge venue surrounded by huge piles of scarf and denim deadstock, managed to directly transmit her clear vision trough the music, the curation and of course the garments! Special appreciation for offering 1,000 tickets to a nonprofessional audience, definitely something that should be more explored in fashion.
Top trends: I noticed a lot of collections had this kind of grunge aesthetic somehow through cut, colors and prints. In terms of proportions, a relation to the volume, which is very obvious and straightforward — oversized top with slim bottom and opposite.
Must-have item(s): Rick Owens’ orthopedics platform boots!
Budgets up or down: Up! Just opened our latest Nanjing store and more to come …
New talent: Undoubtedly Juntae Kim, who held his showroom in Paris for his third collection. Titled “The new preppy,” his designs are just amazing, mixing some historical women references such as corset lines and structures with a masculine modern touch in order to reinvent gender-fluid silhouettes! Alongside his creativity, high quality level fabrics and finishings, so definitely a brand to keep eye on!
Impressions of the week: All the brands are proposing something fresh and it feels great from a buyer perspective!
Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories, La Samaritaine:
Favorite collection(s): Wales Bonner, Dior, Botter
Best show format: Lemaire on the terrace of the Pierre et Marie Curie University: The set of the show felt like an immersive moment reflecting a living picture of reality with models crossing paths, interacting with each other in a very natural way. The Opéra Bastille was an outstanding choice of location to showcase Ami’s Parisian chic.
Top trends: FW23 is an ode to minimalist and functional outerwear whilst being highly aesthetic from everyday wear to eveningwear, blurring the boundaries between genders. Over and exaggerated layering with double collars, scarves, giving an extra dimension to comfort while keeping a strong attitude. As a key color of the season, chocolate is becoming an essential.
Must-have item(s): Fluffy knit, men’s skirt, knee-length shorts and loose-fitting coats. Less sneakers and more boots and derbies.
Budgets up or down: Up for sure! 2023 is full of hope for traffic to be back on track in Paris especially with the first trends of international travelers returning to the City of Light for the physical shopping experiences.
Impressions of the week: Paris keeps its luxurious grandeur but gives today a real visibility to young designers who, beyond presenting ultra-creative collections, show a real capacity to propose commercial collections.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Square Berlin
Favorite collection(s): Dior, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Givenchy, Sacai and Ami.
Best show format: The Dior show was so captivating. The entire performance was outstanding. The screens, the music, the poetry and the clothes — the dialogs between these four elements was completely unique and very inspiring.
Top trends: Elevated dressing — gender-fluid clothing and layering.
Must-have item(s): Skirts with pants and bulky boots. Many bags, as well.
Budgets up or down: Budgets are up in Paris.
New talent: I really like the Ludovic de Saint Sernin fashion approach to gender fluidity.
Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion and editorial director, Nordstrom:
Favorite collection(s): Sacai, Bode, Rick Owens, Wales Bonner, Kenzo, Nicholas Daley, Dries Van Noten, Undercover, Amiri, Lemaire.
Best show format: Kenzo and Bode were among the crop who showed their collections in a theater, with Bode creating a custom set and opening with a sentimental message that set the nostalgic tone of the show. The result was mesmerizing.
Top trends: Shearling jackets were prominent on and off the runway, and the chilly Parisian weather only reinforced the desire for heavy-duty cold weather attire.
Must-have item(s): The coats from Lemaire are always instantly seductive. There were also some statement floral prints from Dries Van Noten that add some much-needed brightness to the winter wardrobe.
New talent: Chaz Jordan’s 1989 Studio made its runway debut with a show attended by plenty of his contemporaries from the world of street fashion. The *NSYNC collaboration was a welcome surprise in an austere, mostly black debut. Winnie New York remains a label to watch, with a unique menswear perspective that brings a new kind of youthful energy.
Impressions of the week: Paris always feels like a marathon, but the exuberant energy that began the men’s season at Pitti has certainly continued to course through the bustling Parisian streets. Fall is usually a stronger season for menswear, with its penchant for layering and heavier fabrics, and this season has been a welcome jolt of rejuvenation in more ways than one.
Alice Feillard, head of menswear and buying director, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Loewe, Lemaire, Saint Laurent, Hed Mayner and Officine Générale.
Best show formats: Lemaire’s chic and nonchalant, very Parisian outside presentation at Jussieu university. The Ami show at Opéra Bastille, where the public was on stage. Alexandre Mattiussi offered a straightforward collection full of great classics. Marine Serre’s impactful set and message, with huge deadstock towers of denim, scarves and tote bags.
Top trends: A season full of impeccable sophisticated and tailored silhouettes. There is definitely a return to a more formal wardrobe after years of streetwear. Suits are back! The key look of the season: a long coat worn over a loose double-breasted jacket with pleated, wide-leg trousers. A great season for shearlings and beautiful coats. We saw a lot of luxurious and refined fabrics, such as double-face cashmere, flannel and leather. Monochromatic full looks and neutral colors: a clean palette of chocolate brown, light khaki, gray, navy and butter, with touches of pink and vanilla — and a lot of black.
Must-have item(s): A relaxed suit — a loose jacket, dropped shoulder and deconstructed, worn with pleated wide-leg trousers — from Dior men, Officine Générale, Ami or Wooyoungmi. Lemaire oversized cardigans. A long slim coat and an XL leather cabas from Loewe. A long overcoat and a shearling bomber jacket from Ami. Wide-leg leather trousers and cargo pants from Amiri.
Budgets up or down: Up.
New talent: Aalto Recoded, for our second season. It is a fully upcycled, creative, yet accessible collection. We are developing brands that we carry with collections we particularly loved this season: Hed Mayner, EgonLab and Botter.
Impressions of the week: A Parisian chic and charming flavor was all over the shows. Paris offered a strong season for elegance, refined tailoring, but also real fashion. Less is more — also seen in Milan — a return to fundamental classics with a perfect wardrobe of impeccable pieces, with a sharp and sophisticated minimalism. Men want to dress up.
Tyler Franch, vice president, fashion director at Hudson’s Bay Company
Favorite collection(s): Loewe, Lemaire, Wales Bonner, Rick Owens, EgonLab, Saint Laurent and Sacai.
Best show format: Although it was a very brisk morning, the Lemaire show set outside at the University Pierre had us transported to a very busy and very chic Paris morning commute. The models both grouped together and solo walked freely through the rooftop space, reminding us that the early morning dream is to be effortlessly put together and bundled up during the early winter mornings to come.
Top trends: New forms of tailoring, hero outerwear, designer denim, fluid tops, wider pants, clean lines, new minimalism, the return of elegance for evening and the dress shoe.
Must-have item(s): A long tailored coat with a strong shoulder and clean lines in luxe wool, shearling, leather or cashmere.
New talent: Although Grace Wales Bonner is no longer considered a new talent, she kicked off Paris Fashion Week with one of my favorite shows of the season. Her take on romanticism and poetic dressing for evening, that looked both effortless and tres chic, feels like she is guiding our guy into the future with confidence, poise and intellect.
Impressions of the week: Traditional rules of dressing are being replaced with an opportunity and platform to embrace one’s individual style and take on what items can mean to a menswear wardrobe. As tailoring has been invested into the stores and the customer demand continues to rise, there’s a unique opportunity for new fits and categories in the offering to service the next generation. The possibilities feel limitless, which is both exciting and uncertain as we move into a moment where emotion will drive purchase decisions balanced with needs of wants.
Laura Larbalestier, fashion director of Harvey Nichols Group:
Favorite collection(s): Loewe, Wales Bonner, Dries van Noten.
Best show format: This season it was less about the format, and all about the live performance.
Top trends: Men’s this season felt softer and certainly more elevated. It was less about must-have items, and an evolution to something softer, with more oversized silhouettes from pants to coats.
Must-have item(s): Tailoring and coats.
Impressions of the week: It was very busy. There were so many amazing shows. It felt as strong as women’s.
Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at Harrods:
Favorite collection(s): Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Kim Jones at Dior, Rick Owens.
Top trends: Wide trousers are here to stay, and this week we saw some of the best silhouettes in myriad rich fabrications, from Dior’s dramatically wide and fluid options to casual denim options at Wooyoungmi. This is a trend that has earned its place in seasons to come. Outerwear reigned supreme this season and we saw some of the most striking coats to date.
Must-have item(s): I expect we will see a huge interest in floor-length tailored overcoats, wide fluid trousers and shirting next season, adding a more dressed-up approach to the winter wardrobe.
Impressions of the week: Overall, the mood has solidified the trends and direction that we have seen in menswear over the last year: a more grown up, sophisticated and elegant approach to dressing. It’s not stiff or classic at all, but a new approach to masculinity. Men are more at ease now more than ever with dressing up for themselves, and not just for the occasion.
Federica Montelli, head of fashion, La Rinascente:
Favorite collections: Loewe, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Ami, Givenchy, Lemaire and Marine Serre were my favorites. Louis Vuitton’s Colm Dillane collection was a pleasant surprise and confirmed a positive direction for the brand in the name of collaborations. Botter and Ludovic de Saint Sernin continue to shine among the younger generation of designers.
Best show formats: Lemaire’s “cinematic” morning at La Sorbonne was a very immersive experience. It managed to tell a story and bring clothes to life with the dynamism of models as actors on the runway — on a very chilly Wednesday morning! However, one theme in particular emerged from the shows: the link between fashion and music proved strong in the many live performances. All worth mentioning were the rave-like duo at Dries Van Noten, Ami’s languid performance by Moses and Kenzo’s Beatles-inspired string quartet.
Top trends: Tailoring, Brit-cool — from country to punk — juxtaposed with an underground subculture vibe were the main inspirations behind the collections. Several brands went on to experiment with a more and more gender-fluid aesthetic, and quite a few of them really pushed the “queer” aspect. Knitwear, long woolen coats, wide pants and shearling jackets were among the top items.
Must-have item(s): An extra-long coat, as seen at Loewe, or a black suit, a look that either opened or in any case was present in virtually all shows. For shoes, both chunky booties and slim Beatles styles, while for accessories, an oversized tote.
Budgets up or down: We are investing heavily in men’s fashion and accessories, with a positive outlook for fall-winter 2023-2024.
Impressions of the week: Brands generally showed solid collections, and from the buyers’ perspective it is exactly what we are looking for. Perhaps I was expecting more groundbreaking concepts or trends coming up, as Paris closes the men’s season, but commercially speaking, we have seen lots of beautiful products that the end-client — especially the luxury one — will appreciate.
Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear, Selfridges:
Favorite collection: Dior, Sacai.
Best show format: The physical fashion show format is back, and there is an increasing presence of video in the fashion shows. Some incredible sets were built by Louis Vuitton, and there was an art background at Loewe.
Top trends: Sophisticated tailoring, and a more grown-up aesthetic alongside tonal colors. Grays, beiges and anthracite were among the most present trends. There were layers of all shapes and forms — skirts, triple T-shirts, shorts on top of trousers. That was another key trend. Collaborations are also back across many runaways.
Must-have item(s): A calibrated jacket as seen in the Junya Watanabe/Palace collaboration, as well as the Carhartt pieces at Sacai.
Budgets up or down: We are feeling positive about the year ahead, overall.
New talent: The Nahmias collection felt like a standout.
Franck Nauerz, director of men’s fashion, Le Bon Marché:
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Dior Homme, Zegna x Elder Statement.
Top trends: A mix between futuristic, chic and elegant silhouettes. An outerwear and ethnic inspiration for some collections.
Must-have items: Loose and flowing pants, mohair and cashmere tops, the cardigan, oversized worker jackets and total leather looks.
Impressions of the week: This season is the continuity of the [spring 2023 season], still with a retro and bohemian touch in many collections. The maisons continue to impress with their elegant and slender silhouettes. Pops of color energize this winter season and add a touch of freshness to the contemporary silhouettes. We continue to see a beautiful evolution in the wardrobe that mixes more and more urban street looks with tailoring.
Ahmet Ocal, buying and merchandising director, Men Merchandise Group, Beymen:
Favorite collection(s): Casablanca, Loewe and Bode.
Best show format: Casablanca was the best show with an epic venue installation including a warplane dressed with flowers. The show started with a speech from the creative director Charaf Tajer stating the importance of the love, peace and cherishing life under any condition. The music selection was stunning and joyful. The show was a total experience in all senses.
Top trends: I see minimalism was coming back, but in different and unusual shapes and constructions. Elongated pieces were so common at the shows, like long overcoats and jackets. Relaxed tailoring was another strong trend. We also witnessed a new way of constructing sartorial pieces, like wide and emphasized jacket shoulders. Black was the dominant color at most shows.
Must-have item(s): A statement overcoat, black leather or vinyl jackets and trousers, long boots in any style, and any item with embellishments, embroideries or handcrafted details.
Budgets up or down: Our budgets are up for Paris, as there are so many brands emerging and existing ones which are empowering their collections season after season. Paris has become the number-one creativity center of men’s fashion.
New talent: Bode, with a fresh approach to updated masculinity, and Courrèges, with a strong and unusual minimalist statement, are the brands we would like to consider this season.
Impressions of the week: There is an obvious escapism from the old status quo to a brave new era. We are facing a radical change in all fields of life, like technology, lifestyles — and also fashion.
Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman:
Favorite collection(s): Rick Owens, Dior, Amiri.
Best show format: The Louis Vuitton show was a glorious spectacle with expansive but minutely detailed sets by director brothers Michel and Olivier Gondry, an explosive live performance by Rosalía, and a great, optimistic collection from guest designer Colm Dillane who had a refreshing, personal take on house codes established by Virgil Abloh. It was a satisfying Cinderella story come to gorgeous life. A mention is deserved of the choreography and inventive projections at the Homme Plissé runway show which were a great complement to the geometric collection.
Top trends: Exaggerated and oversized proportions continue to be key this season, with wide-shouldered, elongated topcoats, especially when belted for dramatic effect, and voluminous pants were the most important silhouettes. Fashion tailoring continues to have prominence, worn in a very relaxed, louche way, with easy, layered underpinnings. Tonal and monochromatic dressing was also key.
Must-haves: A refined, Chelsea-style boot — Dior’s pull-on versions in both leather and rubber, and Loewe’s rough out suede and sleek leather boots were terrific. A long, tailored overcoat, especially if belted. Wide, fluid pants in whatever style suits you. A trim, tailored jacket to pair back to those wide pants.
Impressions of the week: The Milan and Paris menswear shows and presentations are not always in a directional lockstep with each other from season to season, but there was synchronicity throughout the fall collections, a clear correlation between the elegant, simplicity and purity of design that connected the two fashion capitals and the primary messages of designers.
Ida Petersson, buying director, Browns:
Favorite collection(s): Amiri. Mike continued to elevate his designs and this by far is his strongest collection to date.
Best show format: Homme Plissé always delivers, and this show was beautiful. From the set design to the collection, it was a perfect fashion moment.
Top trends: Tonal dressing, soft tailoring, long coats and oversized bags.
Must-have item(s): Bunny shoes at Nahmias, the draped coat from Dior and incredible soft tailoring from Lemaire.
Budgets up or down: Level. Although the collections are strong, the microeconomic climate needs to be considered.
New talent: Kid Cudi’s first collection, Members of the Rage, was impressive. We’re excited to see how his brand evolves from here.
Impressions of the week: A continuation of Milan, a more soft and pared-back approach with an absence of logos.
Luke Raymond, senior menswear lead, Farfetch:
Favorite collections: Rick Owens, Wales Bonner with a special citation for Max Pearmain’s styling at Givenchy. “It really took Matthew Williams’ best collection yet to another level.”
Best show format: Amiri’s show in the round at Le Carreau du Temple, a supersized vinyl record on the floor, and soundtracked by DJ Premier and a live band was probably the standout for me — and nicely complemented a nostalgic, remixed and refined take on Amiri’s signatures. Shoutout also to the hot water bottles and blankets that saved us from -3 temperatures at Lemaire!
Top trends: Tailoring, broad, dropped shoulder and unstructured is the key takeaway; oversized and floor-sweeping overcoats, skirts and dresses in approachable, classic fabrics. Puffy and protective outerwear, something Prada kicked off in Milan with their pillow puffas has made its way to Paris.
Must-have item(s): The overcoat. Broad-shouldered, floor-sweeping, double-breasted in black, gray, brown or neutrals.
New talent: Although not new per se, it feels like a breakthrough season for Hed Mayner whose signature oversized tailoring and utilitarian references sit perfectly at the center of the season’s trends. Rushemy and Lisa continue to elevate Botter and this season felt like a real step up for them — crowned with their Reebok collaboration sneaker. I also really love what Ranra [formerly Arnar Már Jónsson] are doing — conscious, considered fashion that makes everyday dressing that bit better.
Impressions of the week: The season has crystallized where menswear is heading. Bridging the divide between streetwear and classic menswear propositions in a way that feels true to how men, and a varied and various selection of men want to dress — challenging the norms with proportion and gender play for example — but offering solutions in a way that feels approachable, attainable and relevant for now.
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew:
Favorite collections: Amiri, Dries Van Noten, Sacai.
Best show format: Designers that continue to leverage their platform for change and awareness to global issues at large were a standout. Charaf Tajer’s introduction to the audience, prior to the Casblanca show reinforced the peace and happiness that underlined the essence of the collection.
Top trends: Textural layering was a huge styling trend across the men’s collections this season. Kenzo, Junya Watanabe, and Amiri showed this the best. Redefining traditional codes of tailoring prevailed across the collections with an emphasis on the jacket styled in new and modern ways than a traditional suit. Matthew Williams’ take on the suit at Givenchy took formal dressing to a new level.
Must-have item(s): The oversized Loewe tote, a Sacai Carhartt jacket, Kenzo corduroy chore coat, Dior rain boots, relaxed double-pleated trousers from Amiri.
Budgets up or down: Paris offered a breadth of newness and styling codes across the collections that our budgets reflect accordingly.
New talent: Paris embraced Colm Dillane with open arms first with Louis Vuitton, followed by his own namesake collection that shut down the streets of Paris.
Impressions of the week: The energy in Paris was electrifying and the collections did not disappoint. We are experiencing an exciting moment in menswear, where streetwear has an incredible influence on tailored clothing. Collaborations were at almost every collection and the intersection of fashion, art, music and design brought multiple creative ideas into one collection at times.
Riccardo Tortato, head of buying departments, Tsum Moscow & DLT St. Petersburg:
Favorite collection(s): Hermes, Amiri.
Best show format: Amiri. Really beautiful set design and the idea of the old record. I must mention the live music at Dries Van Noten because it was really great.
Top trends: Coats in all different interpretations — it could be “jumper style” as in Loewe, or more dramatic as in Saint Laurent. Almost every single fashion show had a lot of coats and this is the result of a more formal way to dress up. As a consequence of the coat, we noticed more “new formal” shoes and less sneakers, and lot of blazer in different style and shapes.
Must have item(s): A long coat in soft fabric.
Impressions of the week: PFW was really interesting and different than MFW even if the message globally was the same, a new style more chic and sophisticated. Different than in Milan, during PFW there were still in some shows a bit of street style that look really old nowadays. Strange that some big names are still surfing this trend. I really think that a long chapter is closed and the men for 2023 will want to look more slick and sophisticated. I personally loved the Hermès collection because it is the right balance between modern man, chic, elegant but with a twist.
Mytheresa Buying Team
Favorite collection(s): Lemaire, Auralee, Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Bode, Amiri, Kenzo.
Top trends: As seen in Milan, modern tailoring and overcoats were the key highlights. Knitwear is still playing a central role, used either to create layered looks or showed in thicker textures with color blocks (Lemaire) or strong animations (Bode).
New talent: Bluemarble presented a strong knit and outwear collection. Winnie New York also showed a considerable collection, developing good tailoring elements. Hed Mayner interestingly reviewed the classic codes of tailoring and outwear, twisting those aspects in a modern proposal.
Must-have item(s): Overcoats will be definitely championing the next season. We loved the big tote proposed by Loewe.
— With contributions from Samantha Conti, Rhonda Richford, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne