From left to right: Dries Van Noten, Dior, Casablanca, Nanushka, Louis Vuitton Men's Spring 2020

PARIS — Retailers embraced the wave of femininity that swept through the men’s shows in Paris. Fluid suits, silky shirts, a profusion of pastels — think pink! — floral prints and individual expression were the names of the game this season.

“The most important new direction we are looking for in Paris is the genderless look,” said Federica Montelli, head of fashion at La Rinascente.

Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner, pushed the idea a bit further:

“The classic, traditional men’s look for us is completely gone. Easy, fresh and bold are the keywords,” he said.

Dior topped the favorite collections, with Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten as runners-up. The next tier was crowded: Jil Sander, Loewe, Celine, Valentino and Off-White, reflecting diversity in opinions.

In the hot-new-talent department, Casablanca and Nanushka caught notice. And the best venue went to Louis Vuitton — the Paris streets never fail to charm. Lanvin’s poolside runway and Dior’s futuristic set were also popular.

While snarled traffic and hot sticky weather did not go unnoticed, the fashion, it seems, will be remembered the most.

Here, a roundup of the Paris spring collections in the eyes of the retailers.

Casablanca Men's Spring Summer 2020

Casablanca Men’s Spring Summer 2020  Courtesy Photo

Fiona Firth, buying director, Mr Porter 

Top trends: There was a continuation of softer, fluid garments across a range of collections this season, with draped jackets and relaxed printed shirts emerging as key trends. We also saw bigger volume on trousers and shorts in lightweight, flowing fabrics.

Best venue: The Palais de Tokyo provided an exceptional setting for the Rick Owens show — Thomas Houseago’s sculpture and surrounding clay mounds perfectly complemented Owens’ collection.

Must-have item: A jacket or polo shirt and trouser set in pale pink or sage green — sorbet, pastel-like colors were another top trend from Paris.

Talent scouting: The Rochas show was particularly strong this season and I enjoyed Federico Curradi’s use of embroidery and his soft color palette.

 

Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president and general merchandise manager men’s, children, home at Barneys New York

This season there’s a common thread in men’s wear with a more bohemian approach. Paris proved to be the best venue for designers to express themselves with individuality and artistic flair.

Favorite collections: Jil Sander, Amiri, Rhude, Bode, Loewe, Nanushka, Celine and the Undercover x Cindy Sherman capsule.

Top trends: Pink for everything — especially played against military green; florals in prints and jacquard fabrics; tie-dye, watercolor and bandana prints; shorts, both athletic inspired, or denim; rip stop; caftans/tunics; oversized suit silhouettes; transparency in both natural and synthetic fabrics.

Must-have item: Printed shirts in florals.

Best venue: Lanvin, shown at an Art Deco pool.

Say goodbye to: It’s not goodbye but we’re seeing an evolution away from cut and sewns and into more tailoring and wovens with a designer touch.

Talent scouting: Casablanca is emblematic of the wave in artisanal designers carving a new lane in menswear.

Is your open-to-buy up or stable? Paris is inspiring us to shift gears to maximize this opportunity.

 

Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus

This season was filled with really fantastic collections, a rich, fresh season that will be really exciting for our customers.

Favorite collections: Thom Browne, Mike Amiri, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, 1017 Alyx 9SM, Officine Générale and Nanushka.

Top trends: The vividly colored, printed short sleeve shirt. Fluid, relaxed fashion tailoring. The tailored short, a more polished version of the classic weekend wardrobe item. Tech-influenced sportswear, using advanced materials and active-inspired shapes.

Best venue: Daniel Arsham’s monumental crystallized, fossilized “future relics” based on the letters of Dior, scattered in ombréd pink sand was simply jaw dropping and an amazing partnership for the house and a gifted, savvy artist.

Louis Vuitton’s takeover of Place Dauphine was grand in scale and amazing in its attention to detail: crêperie carts, cafés complete with branded placemats, coasters, napkins, etc., and over-scaled logoed park benches.

Ami’s spare, reductive runway show on the floor of the Grand Palais was stunning in its purity, allowing us to really absorb the incredible beauty of that amazing iron structure, and perfectly timed as the sun started to set.

Christian Louboutin introduced us to a wacky, kitschy, fantastic circus museum that in my many, ahem, years coming to Paris I had no idea even existed. It was a fun discovery.

Must-have item: A short-sleeved printed shirt from the Valentino x Roger Dean collaboration; the perfect leather sandals from Officine Générale, a piped PJ shirt from Officine Générale, really anything from Officine Générale; a pair of tailored, voluminous shorts; a Louboutin “nude” waistpack or espadrille.

Say goodbye to: Heat waves and traffic challenges.

 

Shoji Uchiyama, United Arrows men’s fashion director and buyer

Favorite collections: Lemaire and Fumito Ganryu.

Top trends: Clean, nature and sports mixes, modernized ethnic elements.

Must-have item: Linen shirts and pants. Shirts and pants with a sense of drape, using rayon, etc.

Talent scouting: Bode: it was a great, much improved collection.

Is your open-to-buy up or stable? It will be a little less.

Dior Men's Spring 2020

Dior Men’s Spring 2020  Pixelformula/Courtesy

Laura Larbalestier, group fashion buying director for Harvey Nichols

Favorite collections: Jil Sander — this collection was such an evolution for the brand and really defined a new, more refined and romantic version of minimal dressing. Celine — Hedi’s updates on his signature silhouettes felt more appealing than ever, in an updated and modern way. Off-white — this show was early in the week and set a new tone which felt like a softer, nice evolution for the brand.

Top trends: Romance, softer approach, a softer color palette and a more feminine twist on tailoring is important. Soft colors like beige, lilac and cream.

There was a lot of newness in Paris men’s and there was definitely a modern Seventies feeling.

Must-have item: The black hoodie is replaced with printed shirts.

Best venue: Celine.

Say goodbye to: Anything with an edge and same old streetwear.

Talent scouting: Casablanca — we are so excited to be launching this brand in a few weeks and it was one of the freshest shows in Paris.

 

Nelson Mui, director of merchandising at Lane Crawford

Favorite collections: Dior, Loewe, Sacai and Dries Van Noten.

I loved the superb tailoring and subtle palette at Dior, the haute relaxed bohemian references and craft at Loewe (beautiful tunics and knitwear), the tuxedo shirt looks and artfully done archival Hawaiian prints at Sacai. 

Top trends: Seeing a strong return to elevation and being polished, through innovating in tailoring, craft and integrating sportswear and street elements; artful floral prints, technical/new synthetic fabrics, pastel and soft colors.

Must-have items: anything silk/satin; the oversized woven shirt, often with dropped shoulders or in long lengths; the new easy, full short; the fuller, fluid trouser (inclusive of wide leg, high waists etc.) 

Talent scouting: Still confirming new launches but [it’s] interesting to watch [the] development of young brands such as Bode, Nanushka [and] Rhude.

Louis Vuitton Men's Spring 2020

Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring 2020  PIXELFORMULA/Courtesy

Tyler Franch, fashion director at Hudson’s Bay 

Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Louis Vuitton, Dior, GmbH, Ann Demeulemeester and Ami. 

Top trends: A clean and sophisticated pallet of khaki, cream, tan, brown and camel was spread throughout all the collections in Paris. The color story felt even more fresh than ever when used in a more contemporary fashion to elevate. Painterly prints, tie-dye and ombré color was everywhere as we are seeing a more artistic side from the designers come out and a departure from technology. Tailoring continues to be a very strong and we’re loving the idea of a longer skater short to update your new suit for summer. 

Must-have items: The skater short suit from Ami, a full tan look from Dior and the prints at Van Noten. 

Best venue: Virgil shut down Place Dauphine for the Vuitton show with park bench and terrasse seating.

Say goodbye to: Streetwear as we’ve known it.

 

Josh Peskowitz, Moda Operandi’s men’s fashion director

Favorite collection: Acne, Bode, Alyx, Rochas and Dries Van Noten.

Top trends: Color, especially pastels, in tailored silhouettes. Maximal pattern mixing as well as technical details and fabrics. Additionally, pants that have a full volume.

Must-have item: Wide-legged trousers were everywhere. The striped linen and silk pair from Haider Ackermann was my favorite.

Best venue: Lanvin’s piscine with three levels of seating and runway.

Say goodbye to: Wearing all black.

Talent scouting: Federico Curradi for Rochas. The Florentine designer has made the men’s side of Rochas into something romantic but masculine and easy. More and more men are going to be into this way of dressing.

 

Justin Berkowitz, Bloomingdale’s men’s fashion director

Top shows: Valentino was a fantastic combination of interesting silhouette, sophisticated color, and bold print. Pierpaolo Piccoli continues to execute excellent menswear that perfectly encapsulated a key mood of the season.

Luke and Lucie Meier’s soft take on minimalism at Jil Sander felt both crisp and romantic; the shapes in the collection were modern, sophisticated and spoke to both city and sea.

Issey Miyake’s showing of Homme Plisse was also a highlight; beyond the clothes themselves, which were excellent, the show of joy, positivity, and community added a level of humanity that can sometimes be missing on the runway.

Top trends: One word describes the general feeling of the collections this season — escape. Whether through a lens of literal escape, travel, or virtual escape, conveyed through feelings of romantic nostalgia, this idea stirs the emotional response that will help drive the retail part of the equation.

Travel presents itself through military styles mixed with florals, tie-dye and riviera-like stripes. We’ve also seen so much color, in a great dichotomy of bright and light — fuchsia/pale pink, eggplant/lavender, lemon/butter and olive/mint. Loose trousers, boxy jackets and tunic shapes have been iterated in nearly every soft fabric in existence — silk, linen, viscose, voile, paper nylon — and more.

We’ve also seen an abundance of romantic and nostalgic ideas, namely through a focus around art and the artist. This was at its most literal in a collaboration with an artist on either set design, print design, or craft-focused details. It was more abstract when inspired by nostalgic ideas of an artist or craftsman’s uniform — workwear, cut full and wide, and again, the tunic — combined with homespun details like patching and contrast stitch work.

Must-have item: Something long up top. Longer jackets and trench coats proved the outerwear silhouette to have. Shirting silhouettes likewise lengthened, ranging from shapes that hit midthigh to more tunic and caftan-like silhouettes.

Best venue: Kim Jones’ collaboration on set design with Daniel Ashram was incredible — ombré sand could not have been easy to execute. Issey Miyake’s takeover of the Place des Vosges was apparently 20 years in the making; the performative aspect of the show likewise did not disappoint. And finally, less a venue, but a highlight nonetheless — Solange Knowles’ concert at Kenzo was a pleasure.

Say goodbye to: The uniform codes of masculine dress; this season was hyper-focusd on individual self-expression. This was most apparent in the prevalence of print on the runway. As we like to say in retail, prints are personal — the customer’s choice of which to wear, and how they wear them, will result in interesting takes on personal style.

Talent scouting: We loved the Nanushka presentation for its approachable take on many of the season’s greatest ideas. Fumito Ganryu found his stride with incredible photo prints and his bold use of color. Louis Wong’s new direction for Editions MR was an interesting mash-up of French elegance and American prep.

Model on the catwalk

Model on the catwalk  Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Karen Vernet, men’s fashion director and e-business development director for Printemps

Favorite collection: Sies Marjan, Off-White, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Raf Simons, GmbH and Dior Homme.

Talent scouting: Kenneth Ize Casablanc: second show, a new approach to streetwear, cool and beautiful “vogue runway.”

Top trends: Traditions of craft and local artisanship merging with high-end and contemporary design aesthetics, tailoring, and silhouettes. Use of wholly sustainable materials trying to change unhealthy attitudes within the fashion industry; rigid cuts with everyday wearability; color: pastels (pearl gray, yellows, pinks, lilacs), earth tones (burnt orange, camel, brown, khaki) and bright fluorescents (green, yellow, fuchsia); suiting: reenergized three-button suit and knee pants make a comeback: genderless: men collections show a very genderless approach to the everyday wardrobe; Transparency: not only in shoes but also in rtw to play with layering.

Must-have item: Nike Air Max 95 Homme Plus collaboration; small men’s handbags (Jil Sander and Ludovic de Saint Sernin).

Are budgets up or down? UP!

 

Bosse Myhr, Selfridges:

Top trends: Miami Heat, “Miami Vice” is something we see a lot. Amiri, Casablanca, SSS World Corp and of course Balmain’s music festival

Cafe culture and holiday vibes were apparent at Lanvin at their show by the swimming pool, Casablanca at a private garden cafe in Montmartre and of course Virgil Abloh’s Parisian show.

Must-have item: A loose printed silk shirt for spring 20 is definitely the must-have. Sometimes even worn as a total look together with matching shorts.

Best venue: Dior’s set design and collaboration with Daniel Aragon was the stand out show venue. The Future relics setting of Mr Christian Dior’s office was amazing to see, as well as the runway of a degrade sand floor which looked awesome.

Hot new brands: Nicomede Talavera’s relaunch as Nicomede. is very strong and an exciting addition to the Menswear market. (We will be launching Nicomede.Uniform in a couple of weeks at Selfridges.) And we are excited about Yang Li which is keeping with music as a legacy trend. Overall we think that brands still like to embrace music we liked seeing Yang Li keeping that trend with his collection based on the concept of a “greatest hits” record in collaboration with eight musicians.

 

Simon Longland, general merchandise manager of men’s wear, Harrods:

Favorite collections: Loewe represented free-spirited, effortless luxury paying homage to the modern gentleman. Dior — the ultimate celebration of art. Muted porcelain tones were subtly interrupted by delicate flaws, striking the balance between clinical and emotionally led fashion. The Rimowa collaboration provided the must-have of the week. Led by the imagination, Valentino’s performance was a beautiful display of a millennial take on masculinity. The flamboyant embroidered landscapes by artist Roger Dean were enchanting and entrancing, transporting the mind to another realm. Jil Sander: clarity of vision and a casual take on boxy tailoring. The collection, paired luxurious, formal fabrics with casual silhouettes.

Top trends: Colors: A parade of porcelain — sugared almonds come to mind of this season’s most consistent colors.  Sky blue, soft pink, lemon and mint were heavily featured, whether muted or celebrated in more vivid blight bold tones such as – fuchsia, apple and cobalt. Neutral tones such as white, sand, stone, camel and khaki created a contrast against black, eradicating the navy tones seen in previous collections. Color was used to make a statement this year, single shades worn from head to toe or in contrast blocks. With the exception of Tie-Dye, this was seen across the board, from brands with a streetwear DNA to those with a more sartorial approach. Bowling shirts, trousers and coats sported rich dense tropical, jungle and floral prints. Tailoring: suits were seen across most, if not all, collections, whether fluid, relaxed and soft or sharp, tailored and slim in muted colors or bold and bright.

Whether on combat or cargo trousers, jackets or shirts, pockets are evident. Throwing shade to traditional placement, pockets can be found in the most unexpected of places.

Two options for lightweight summer coats: long parkas or trenches. Expect parkas in light billowing technical fabrics and trenches in natural fabrications: both seen in bold rich prints or solid color and worn in head to toe single color looks.

Taking a step back from combat and utility styles, soft fluid wide leg trousers dominated the shows this season.

Expect mini cross body bags as the go to accessory in SS20.

Must-have item: The entire Dior x Rimowa Monogram Collaboration — but especially the mini hard case cross body, featuring Rimowa’s sturdy aluminium, etched with the Dior monogram.

If the instant reaction to the cross body clutches, worn over pastel suits on the runway today is any indication, the waiting lists are already extensive.

Best venue: Louis Vuitton took over an entire historic square within Place Dauphine, transforming it into a single giant outdoor Louis Vuitton café, proving that Louis Vuitton represents a way of life.

Lanvin’s venue offered a serene moment at The Pailleron: an Art Deco swimming pool. A natural habitat for the soft pastel tones of the collection.

Saying goodbye to: The omnipresent sportswear: while still a vital element its absence was noted. The genre was given a cleaner and more elevated makeover.

Louis Vuitton Men's Spring 2020

Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring 2020  Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Mario Grauso, president, Holt Renfrew:

Favorite collections: Hermès covered all the trends of the season in the most sophisticated way. Beautiful pops of color, soft pastels, prints, and the best cross-body bag of the season.

Dior did an exceptional job of continuing its Fall story in a pastel and neutral palette. The molded plastic work boots, the Dior x Rimowa hard-side accessories, and the new interpretations of the saddle bag will be sold out fast, so get on the waiting list.

Louis Vuitton was another standout moment of the week. Oversized backpacks and new twists on the classic luggage pieces of the house led the show. The outerwear was super strong with color and prints on anoraks and raincoats.

Best venue: LV was pretty spectacular considering they closed off an entire square and turned it into a café with oversized park benches and used the street as a runway. Extra points for the logo napkins and ashtrays.

Must-have items: Dior x Rimowa’s hard-case accessories with oblique logo; Dior’s clear boot paired with newspaper print sock; Dior’s pale pink blouson; Dior’s hand-painted toile shirt; Louis Vuitton’s floral painted cargos, pleated raincoat and oversized Keepall trunk; Hermès’ teal leather cross-body; Hermès’ mint green anorak; Comme des Garçons’ printed blazer and color-blocked pullover; Junya Watanabe’s red and khaki color-blocked trench; Jil Sander’s oversized white shirt, and Berluti’s terra-cotta deerskin bomber.

Top trends: Florals and prints, soft pastels, colorblocking, bold colors, bright whites, utility, cross-body everything, summer combat boots, super lightweight fabrics, shorts in all lengths, utility jackets, rainwear, summer outerwear, stripes, sandals, oversized shirting, leather, relaxed tailoring, cropped pants and transparency.

Are budgets up or down? Budgets remain stable for the spring 2020 season.

Say goodbye to: Say bye-bye to shows with more than 30 minutes travel time.

 

Roopal Patel, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue

Paris has been a breath of fresh air and has brought a rhythm to the men’s spring collections that we have been looking for.

Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton — Virgil Abloh’s Parisian garden was the perfect backdrop for his color block pastels, punchy florals, oversize tailored candy colored suits and sport parkas. He continues to push the boundaries of this heritage house for a new audience to experience.

Heron Preston’s “concrete jungle” was electric with pops of neon and pastels in techno treated fabrics. The mix of sport and tailoring feels directional as we shift from this street wear mind-set.

Virgil Abloh’s Off-white collection was a stand out! He continues to move the idea of menswear forward by shifting his customer from streetwear to a more elevated and dressed-up wardrobe.

Dior — The collaboration with Kim Jones and Daniel Ashram transported us to the year of 3020 with tailoring redefined.  The collection continues to focus on the luxe suit redefined. The incredible lineup of accessories and shoes, including the Dior Rimowa collaboration, is bound to have waiting lists worldwide.

Valentino was a standout for us this week. The punchy bright colors, artistic graphics and tropical vibes mixed with utility pieces feels accessible for the modern-day man.  The oversized backpack and the new hiking influence “rock runner plus” sneakers look strong and directional for accessories and shoes.

Other standouts: Balmain ,Thom Browne, Dries van Noten, Christian Louboutin.

Top trends: There have been a lot of color trending on the runways! Soft pastels from pinks, blues, mint green and lilac to bright shades of yellow, fuschia, orange, and vibrant blue. If not color, then there has been a palette of neutrals — khaki, beige, white, sand and cargo.

A play of graphic are adding strong novelty to the neutrals:

Tropical, graffiti, brush strokes, animal/leopard prints, tie dye, dip dye, color blocking, denim continues, sport influences in outerwear — the parka, the windbreaker and the sporty trench. Tevas, the chunky runner, the hiker sneaker and hiking influences in footwear are directional. Oversized accessories from backpacks to totes.

Best venues: Balmain’s music meets fashion festival at the Jardin des Plantes was a feast for Everything…from the lineup of talent to the fashion. Olivier Roustier is always moving things forward with his vision on how fashion and culture connect.

Say bye-bye to: Streetwear and logos!

The must have item of the season: One of the Dior/Rimowa bags.

 

Federica Montelli, head of fashion at La Rinascente:

We continue to develop ‘resortwear,’ which is a strong business for us and growing for men’s. A strong focus [is] on accessories, where in bags we are tapping a few emerging brands and pushing our assortment toward modular, multipocket sporty accessories and more traditional handbags that have a unisex feel.

For shoes: sandals, both with a sporty feel and refined leather, moccasins, and why not some heels for men. We are still looking at brand collaborations, like Greg Lauren x Paul & Shark, A-Cold-Wall x Diesel and many others, as they still represent a key attraction to our customers.

Favorite collections: Dior, Louis Vuitton, Dries van Noten, Loewe, Celine, Lanvin, Alyx and Kenzo.

Top trends: Gender fluidity, including accessories and shapes of ready-to-wear; a strong holiday vibe a bit more retro; dainty flower prints, and delicate pastel colors.

Best venue: There were so many interesting venues this time, less historical buildings and more outdoor locations. Louis Vuitton’s Place Dauphine was such a surprise, but I also loved Lanvin’s pastel-colored swimming pool or Casablanca’s Musée de Montmartre garden. Overall, it was about conveying a serene experience in the middle of the bustling city.

Must-have item: Knitwear sweaters, sleeveless tops, pastel suits, fluid and printed shirts on top of ribbed tank tops, relaxed safari pants, more fitted Seventies shapes, boot-cut jeans with short and slim bombers and blazers, a structured bag (unisex), a modular multipocket backpack or cross-body, footwear expressing a relaxed vibe — fisherman sandals, buttery leather loafers, lighter and less structured sneakers, tie-dye, crinkle fabrics, a touch of feminine pearls.

Talent scouting: Bode opened fashion week and delivered a really interesting men’s debut in Paris. We loved Casablanca’s “Mediterranean resort-meets-tailoring,” Davi Paris’ bucolic collection, Nanuska men’s collection which proved itself a contender in this summery-easy vibe. We are keeping an eye on all of the gender-fluid collections, like Ludovic de Saint Sernin.

Open to buy: [Budgets] are up for the Paris market, as we are adding several new brands to our men’s mix, especially in the view of our omnichannel project launch.

Dries Van Noten Men's Spring 2020

Dries Van Noten Men’s Spring 2020  Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner:

This is the time to buy key fashion looks. Men — and young men especially — are completely into fashion and are not afraid at all to wear strong, bold, key fashion looks. If not a complete look, then some bold, easier pieces to get the spirit of the look.

The brands that we sell are very good at recreating themselves each season keeping their identity strong and recognizable.  Designers are very much alert to what is going on around us and very close to what customers want. Through collabs and strong design teams they are therefore offering very desirable products that sell.

Favorite collections: Dior, Celine, Dries Van Noten, Off-White.

Top trends: Casual tailoring, colors, prints, very good propositions to infuse easy, chic tailoring to street style.

Best venue: Louis Vuitton’s Place Dauphine venue infused freshness, boldness and creativity in a typical postcard [like] Paris street. The message is crisp and clear. Brilliant.

Must-have item: Long jackets, long flare pants, colored or printed short-sleeved shirts.

Talent scouting: Heron Preston is very much liked by our young crowd. We like the easy Nanushka take on men for a bit older man.

Open to buy: Men’s is up.

 

Damien Paul, head of men’s wear for matchesfashion.com

Favorite collections: I loved Rick Owens show. This is a designer in complete command of his vision which moves forward each season and always surprises. I also like the collab he has done with boxing brand Champion. Federico Curradi at Rochas is creating modern, luxurious clothes for men who appreciate quality, attention to detail and off-the-scale fabrications but with a complete lack of formality or stuffiness.

Top trends: Where to start? Boots for summer (more appealing than you’d think), leather, pink and orange and louche knee-length shirting that resemble upscale kaftans.

Must-have item: A green military shirt by Rochas that looks like it has been sourced in an army surplus store but which is constructed from the softest cashmere. Very clever.

Best venue: I have to say The Pompidou Centre, the setting for the Ludovic de Saint Sernin show.

Say goodbye to: I’m saying bye, thankfully, to the worst traffic I’ve ever endured in Paris.

Talent scouting: Watch this space.

 

Franck Nauerz, men’s department director for Le Bon Marché

Top trends: Elegant outerwear or cool tailoring; fluidity, loose fits, nature, pastels, artistic painting, floral prints and sustainability.

Must-haves: Loose, pastel suits, fluid oversized parkas, short-sleeved shirts with flower prints, the Dior x Rimowa collaboration.

Best venue: Lanvin pool.

Say goodbye to: Hoodies.

Talent scouting: Nanushka and A-Cold-Wall

Open to buy: More of Off-White, Thom Browne, Officine Genérale and Isabel Marant.

 

Jeffrey Kalinsky, founder of Jeffrey New York, and designer fashion director of Nordstrom

This is one of the greatest times for men’s fashion ever. The men’s business has an energy and a trajectory that is just super positive. More men than ever are interested in fashion, and want to wear fashion, whether it’s a 16 year-old kid or a grown man, it couldn’t be a better period for men’s fashion than the one we’re in. I think it’s going to get more that way. It’s a wonderful, optimistic time for anybody in the men’s fashion business.

Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Dior, Celine, Valentino.

Top trends: Animal prints, bell bottoms, pastels, tailoring, camp shirts, bags.

Must-have item: Something animal print.

Best venue: It wasn’t so much the venue, but that Dior ambiance was absolutely beautiful. Where do you see sand that grades from pink to white like that? The still life Dior relief when you walked in, all of that was quite inspiring, it set a tone.

Talent spotting: I quite like Phipps, who’s up for the LVMH prize. I’ve been looking for a few seasons, and I can see a big potential for him.

Budgets: We open our wallets wide when the merchandise is right, when the product is desirable and it has that emotion. There is lots to buy in Paris.

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