Hussein Chalayan continued the conversation he started at his men’s wear show earlier this month, using his pre-fall range as a vehicle to express his concerns about immigration. He translated his thoughts in subtle ways, producing a collection that was filled with intriguing, yet wearable, pieces.

With the idea of trying to get somewhere, but always ending up back where you started, the designer draped dresses, tops and outerwear, and incorporated round loops of fabric into each piece — a subtle nod to the idea of being stuck in a vicious circle.

Similarly, the prints and embroideries in the range blended motifs inspired by African culture with geometric patterns such as Venn diagrams. Among the standouts was a black maxidress featuring tulle panels embroidered with red circular patterns, and a draped midi skirt and top combination featuring a print that blended the Venn diagrams with splashes of leopard.

“It’s kind of there and it kind of isn’t,” said the designer describing his approach of subtly lacing his ideas and thoughts into the “ongoing wardrobe” which he presents to his customers in every pre-collection. This season, the wardrobe was filled with sophisticated signature pieces, from loosely tailored suits, to spliced knits and a peplum coat, the kind that would quietly command the room’s attention.

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