Abundance seems to be a key word to describe Alessandro Michele’s era at Gucci.
Incredible sales, outstanding brand popularity, extensive collections and hyper-decorativism are definitely some of the elements that are marking the rebirth of the label.
Once again, Michele approached the pre-fall season — which is usually dedicated to safer, more commercial collections — with the same flamboyant, opulent, quite extreme attitude that defines his runway shows.
The brand presented a big lineup of 82 looks, which were shot by photographer Peter Schlesinger in different Roman locations, including the aula magna of the Dental Hospital George Eastman and the Hotel Mediterraneo, all previously used by Dario Argento for his horror movies.
Michele’s signature cinematic approach highlighted the quintessential eclecticism of the collection, which, while touching many different notes, was still so coherent and cohesive.
The Roman designer easily shifted from bourgeois bon ton to hip street glam. His nonsense grammar rules actually enabled him to build his own language, which is not only spoken within his reign but is actually becoming an international fashion idiom.
Clothes-wise, the lineup was extremely inclusive. Windbreakers, separates splashed with the Flora pattern, embroidered oversize college cardigans, bold tracksuits, as well as an array of jackets and skirts coming in the GG logo pattern and the delicate chiffon evening dresses in nude tones, were a continuation of the latest spring show. New silhouettes and motifs were introduced. These included polished tunics worn over flared pants, roomy caftan dresses, A-line frocks peppered by trompe l’oeil decors or chevron prints, as well as extremely chic suits featuring belted jackets with Chinese collars and high-waisted pleated pants.
The leather numbers, such as a Western jacket with suede inserts and fringes and a bomber exquisitely embroidered on the back, were all treated to obtain a charming lived-in effect, while a covetable velvet coat lined with satin was trimmed with pearls.
Highlighting Michele’s attention to the urban culture, the brand also presented New York Yankees’ customize caps — a sneak-peek of a collaboration, to be fully unveiled in February, with several Major League Baseball historic clubs.