Derek Lam 10 Crosby Pre-Fall 2018

The subtle artistic spirit of Agnes Martin merged with ikebana floral design.



Derek Lam 10 Crosby’s relatively new design director Shawn Reddy (he’s three seasons in) continued to infuse an earthy simplicity into the collection for pre-fall. In terms of references, he combined Agnes Martin’s artistic spirit, as well as grids, stripes, graphic patterns and neutral colors inspired by her work, with a touch of ikebana floral design. Silhouettes were born from clean, American classics and elevated by interesting details.

“We imagine this girl to be a potter living in Brooklyn,” said Reddy when he got to a spare dark, raw indigo denim jumpsuit with clean hardware buttons up the front and a cutout back. “She’s somewhat creative and has the essence of Agnes Martin today.”

Styling emphasized the artistic attitude. For example, a blue-and-white diagonal striped cotton dress with pleated details on the chest took on an eclectic feeling when worn over a turtleneck. Likewise, layered striped cotton shirts worn over a striped ribbed knit tank dress with asymmetric details. But individual pieces were wearable and unfussy with a lot of versatility. Nowhere was that more evident than an apron dress — a serene slip with an apron panel in the front — that could be worn three ways: loose and undone; tied in the back, or wrapped around the body for a slimmer shape.