They say timing is everything and one is inclined to guess that Tomas Maier would agree. He operates on a schedule — the calendar is often the first thing he references during previews of his collections, whether for Bottega Veneta or his own line. At a walk-through of the former’s pre-fall lineup, Maier divvied the clothes up into three deliveries — May, June and July — almost designing three micro-themes within one collection, each based on what he thinks women would want at that exact time of year.
The first part was the next step from his spring collection — light, soft, unadorned derivations of some of the silhouettes shown on the runway. Light pink dresses in airy, washed silk were suited to summer’s early days. Then, for June, “What do I need?” asked Maier. “It’s probably a wedding, a christening. Events come up.” Special occasions warranted special details, such as an easy, robe-like printed cotton coat over a multicolored bronze, blue and white paillette dress in a simple, sporty silhouette. When it finally gets closer to real fall, Maier wanted to tease the season with sophisticated back-to-school/back-to-work shapes, such as graphic plaid skirts, leather jackets and ultralight knit polos with snake and paillette trims.
The main shoe shape was a patent, classic round-toe pump with high heels that were skinny from the side and thick from the back. Done in solid shades of candy-apple red, optic white and bright yellow, they picked up on the color play between the clothes and bags, many of which used new surface decoration, such as bumpy sphere details, diamond patterns and snake skin trim. Pragmatic as Maier is, he penciled in plenty of room for desire.