“A gothic, romantic fairy-tale,” Stuart Vevers said during the walk-through of his women’s and men’s pre-fall collections for Coach. He aimed to design what he referred to as a “specific moment” — a stand-alone capsule for the season rather than a transitional fashion message. References included American rock ‘n’ roll royalty, a blend of Stevie Nicks’ romantic spirit and Axl Rose’s swagger, plus the darker side of Disney’s “Snow White.”
The juxtaposition of cartoon references, like the seven dwarves or poison apple, with Americana accents — whipstitching, floral embroideries and eyelets — made for an exciting assortment. Literal interpretations took many forms, like a knitted sweater with a spooky “house in the woods” motif, or “Sleepy” and “Bashful” embroidered leather bags. Standouts included a delicate yet edgy black lace and floral printed handkerchief dress as well as a sleek, tailored black band jacket.
The sensibility was the same for men’s wear, which had a distinct streetwear edge. Hoodies, short-sleeve sweatshirts, backpacks and skateboards came embellished with ghost eyes and the occasional evil squirrel graphic, reflecting the designer’s sense of fun and cool.
These items mingled with Vevers’ trademark classics with a twist such as polos with a dinosaur crest, varsity jackets with Western details and graphic novelty sweaters.