Creative director Marianna Rosati’s pre-fall collection evolved the main tenets of her spring lineup, focusing on the expansion of non-leather fabrics like silk and plaid knits to balance her leather staples. She founded the label on the basis of manipulating leathers into everyday, work appropriate silhouettes, treating them as any other malleable material — though it’s undoubtedly difficult to pull off head-to-toe leather looks day in and day out.
She’s seen a positive response to her non-leather hybrid pieces, which paved the way for the knitwear, silk dresses and plaid separates seen here. The plaids held the greatest appeal for constant wear, cut into sharp-shoulder blazers and mixed print skirts, or accenting the sides of sporty pants. Ruched silk blouses and dresses provided a sense of lightness and fluidity that helped break up the toughness of outerwear and tailoring.
The strength of this lineup lay expectedly in the wide range of leather offerings, from the soft cropped shirting and urban puffer jackets with large hems to Eighties-influenced power suiting made with wrinkled patent leather, and mixed media jackets consisting of shearling, nylon and soft sheepskin. Many of the coats reverse from leather to shearling to provide great value. In fact, these are clothes appreciated best in person — if only to feel the quality and lightness leather can provide.