With the approach of a three-year anniversary, Kobi Halperin was feeling a sense of nostalgia — for his homeland, Israel, and for his namesake line’s founding principles. The designer is focused on timeless design with signature embroidery; he’s never felt inclined to splash his name or a logo across his designs, opting to let the craftsmanship speak for itself. It’s a traditional practice of the Bedouin people in the Israeli desert, as well, who have created a cultural identity for themselves with tonal black-on-black embroidery on robes. Halperin was drawn to the parallel use of thread work in creating identity, along with the strong visual imagery the desert implies.

His pre-fall collection came in a muted palette culled from the desert, along with a capsule of leopard prints. “I’m passionate about movement,” Halperin said. “This is the most elegant animal that exists.” His lineup was all about softness, motion and comfort. Nowhere was that more apparent than a jumpsuit cut with harem pants. Long tunics and printed silk pajama sets hammered home a notion of ease. Halperin’s signature embroidery came in a variety of applications — “x” contrast stitching on featherweight blouses and maxidresses; subtle tonal embroidery on a bright orange blouse, and updated embroidery with hints of metal and beading. They helped create a level of depth and novelty to the identity Halperin is trying to create.

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