Marissa Webb’s familiar military-meets-men’s wear aesthetic derived from a personal heirloom this season. One of her grandfathers, a sea captain named William, had a vintage nautical jacket that triggered Webb’s first sketch. Anyone who knows the slightest about the designer knows she loves a good utilitarian reference. “I love old uniforms and in general always gravitate toward the history of clothing,” Webb said at a walk-through.
The buttons of the jacket turned up on silhouettes ranging from sleek jumpsuits to military outerwear and severely high-waisted pants, which drew from Thirties men’s wear and were cut in denim, a first for the brand. But don’t think of it as a launch, simply as another fabrication to bring in a sense of casualness. “For me, it’s about what do I wear on a daily basis that I can offer to people that love our silhouettes.” The fabric was also cut in a great coat with an open back that could be worn as a dress.
It’s equally important for Webb to balance the toughness with femininity. Tiered floral dresses provided movement against sharply tailored jackets; velvets, hinting at fall, were cut loose and open for a light feeling. Easy lace tops paired back effortlessly to the high-waisted pants and had a sense of novelty. Yet nothing was more novel than a graphic T with “William” printed three times, signifying the men in Webb’s life — her grandfather, father and husband.