Max Mara’s pre-fall collection was an example of why fans of the house return to it — a meditation on one of its classic, impeccably tailored cashmere coats, specifically the 101801. Guided loosely by the Japanese design principles of modernity and tradition — Yasuhiro Ishimoto’s photographs of the Katsura Imperial Villa were a reference — the design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved 101801 into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat. Monochromatic looks — shown in navy, camel and ivory — were built out of spare crepe dresses and jumpsuits with elegant, utilitarian lines, cashmere tailored separates, and romantic yet citified maxis decorated with vertical ruffles. The brand’s classic monogram, revived on the spring runway, was used with subtlety on tonal prints. Styled with beanies, gloves, ankle socks and flat oxfords, the look was serious chic. The lineup offered much in the way of timeless wardrobe staples, and the coats in particular will never go out of style. Buy one and wear it forever, but you’ll always want more.

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