A sea-life-inspired collection shown via mini runway show at Pier 40, overlooking the Hudson River — the references were impossible to miss in Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim’s pre-fall collection for Oscar de la Renta. Cute illustrated seagulls appeared as a print on a shirtdress and on an intarsia blond mink coat. Fishbone motifs included sequined embroidery on an ivory merino shirt with tied shoulder details over houndstooth tweed trousers, and giant ivory laser-cut leather applique on a black tulle evening dress.
“We designed for a summer delivery,” said Garcia. “When it gets to the stores, it’s going to be what you want to wear to your summer house.”
The lineup was extremely commercial, full of takes on white shirting and blouses, which Garcia noted is a best-selling category. The shirts were worn with things such as a navy and white window pane boucle skirt, a navy dip-dyed plaid pencil skirt, a pair of extralong pinstripe skinny trousers that zipped at the ankle, and a neatly tailored black crepe coat with pearl embroidery at the cuff and matching cropped trousers. The pieces were nice and cleanly cut to be filed under the polished modernist fashion category, but Garcia and Kim still need to establish a strong signature silhouette for their vision for de la Renta. On the way, they’re also working on establishing a bag and shoe business, introducing a few new small structured bag styles in barrel and box shapes that looked good, as well as mules and pumps — some embroidered, some spare — all set on structural kitten heels that looked cool and comfortable.