There were a lot of covetable pieces in Chris Leba’s gritty Americana-inflected lineup. The Eighties and early Nineties typically manifest in different forms for the designer each season, this time leaning on a notion of edgy, reconstructed men’s wear.

On the side of grunge, red plaid fabric was worked in offbeat ways. An unstructured wool suit was cut oversize and with intentional crinkles. Flannels had inverted stitching. Wide-leg shorts featured a playful wrap-front kilt; even a fanny pack was attached to a similar pleated skirt. The latter was great for adding layers without the bulk.

Leaning more classic was outerwear inspired by men’s cuts. A dramatic sculpted leather jacket featured signature wide-set shoulders that looked as if the sleeves were being taken apart. A sharp blazer was cut with a practical shirt tail so it could be tucked in. Leba’s strength lies in tweaking what’s already luxe with some edge. Drawing from men’s wear also gives his woman a sense of cool rebellion.

With roots in denim, Leba is constantly pushing for innovation with the fabric, introducing a new straight-leg Cadillac jean with a novel back flare visible only from the side.

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