Tuomas Merikoski waxed nostalgic, looking back to the Seventies with his Finnish eye in this collection inspired by love. Not just the emotion, that is, but the progressive rock label of the era, Love Records, which harks from his homeland. The Paris-based designer even licensed out its logo to display on parts of the lineup.

His take on flares included Aalto’s signature fixed pleat pants, this time with the pleat open below the knee on a plaid wool crêpe design. There was a beige trouser suit with athletic cords cinched at the knee, while the reference was more literal on a pair of superwide “trews” in yellow checked mohair with a matching tailored coat that really packed a punch. There was a wrap-around mini skirt — of course — in the same fabric.

The textured orange velvet was also of an era, as seen on one of Merikoski’s distinctive asymmetric-bodice dresses, as was a kitschy jacquard polo shirt in beige and blue with Lurex threads. Ditto his striped-patchwork leather flared skirt.

On the footwear side, there was a new pair of knee-high square-toe boots in patent yellow leather that would brighten up any rainy day, as well as a super pair of forest green croco-effect sandals complete with a pale pink shearling interior.

Merikoski fully intended to channel a slightly gauche, rather than glam, interpretation of the epoch. With the “fuggly” trend still in full steam, it’s highly likely that this will translate commercially for the fast-growing brand.

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