Serge Ruffieux explored his more rational “left brain” side with a stronger focus on the architecture and cuts, but the collection remained rich in detail and texture with a signature clash of motifs and textures including Fifties-style prints and stripes, rough wool and technical silk.
The designer continued to establish his own vocabulary at the house, mixing an eccentric old-school “proper” Parisian vibe — think French trenches with hand-stitching, A-line coats, bi-material duffles with quilted hoods and pleated skirts edged with colored artisanal stripes — with a traveler spirit.
The dresses were particularly cool, bridging an urban “couture-ish” vibe, like the embroidered red polo dresses in a Japanese fabric with raw edges.
His penchant for dualities played on urban and far-flung references, with tribal masks among the prints, and a contrast of noble and rustic cloths.
The high-waisted jeans in a thick wool denim and the line’s knitwear were among the standouts, especially the preppy turtlenecks and old-school sweaters combining different gauges. The tailoring felt a little tricky at times.