For his first collection since announcing the launch of an activewear capsule line, Giambattista Valli sketched out his vision of how casual staples like track pants and down jackets might fit into his ultra-feminine universe, beloved of “It” girls like Lauren Santo Domingo and Bianca Brandolini.
The good news is that his faithful customers won’t have to sacrifice an ounce of chic. In Valli World, puffer jacket rhymes with pink duchesse, and jogging suits feature strips of macramé lace instead of racing stripes.
That’s not to suggest he isn’t proficient in technical matters: as creative director for the last decade of Moncler’s recently discontinued Gamme Rouge line, Valli probably knows better than most designers just how far you can push techno-couture. He just doesn’t want it to look like hard work.
“It’s modern elegance. I wanted to challenge the notion that you have extreme elegance on the one hand and hoodies on the other, because I love finding common ground between the two,” he explained.
Hence, his signature chiffon day dresses could be dressed up with slouchy silver-studded black boots, or down with chubby fur loafers. The outerwear, lightweight and richly embellished, might pass for an evening jacket — just the ticket to carry New Yorkers through the winter gala season.
Valli also suggested a new uniform for Ladies Who Lunch: a black tweed jacket came with a sequined crop top, logo jeans and fur-lined slides. Let the socialite games begin.