Gabriele “Bebe” Moratti is still feeling annoyed with the world around him, and chose to express his angst with this grunge soundtrack in sartorial form, a continuation of the evolution that began with Redemption’s spring collection. The fact that the growing label’s musical register happens to be hot right now is coincidental. That’s Redemption’s world.
Looser silhouettes continued to gain ground in the lineup, which was stronger on daywear. Floaty below-the-knee dresses and cute playsuits came in pretty floral or star prints in black and white and were paired with big vintage-inspired fake fur coats and gilets, while a punkish red tartan skirt had plumetis lace details.
The loose T-shirts and hoodies, too, were for everyday wear. Rather than superskinny, jeans took on cropped boyfriend cuts, including one distressed pair with tartan patches, and even the tuxedo pants were worn short with cargo pockets.
There were still some supersexy dresses in black velvet or glittering jersey, and the brand’s signature tie-neck blouses — one of its bestsellers — were this time done in a translucent burnt velvet. A tweed miniskirt with lace details was another highlight in this register. But this was not the dominant theme, and Moratti doesn’t see it as an opposition anyway. “This doesn’t contrast with this,” he said, pointing out seemingly divergent styles. “It can be the same woman.”