With preparations under way for the house’s 50th-anniversary celebrations in 2018, Sonia Rykiel’s women’s lib roots were alive and well in this covetable “wild and free”-themed wardrobe combining function, form and fun.
“It’s about the pieces, the way she wears them, the attitude,” said Julie de Libran, showing how a fluid tailored men’s jacket in an aged-blue dégradé check tucks into a cargo pant to create a new jumpsuit. Or how a matching leather T-shirt and skirt in “streets-of-Saint-Germain” gray — also in a signature, snug, satin-backed crepe version — forms a dress silhouette when cinched with a belt.
Leather minis and a trans-seasonal mink blouson with removable black leather sleeves sported utilitarian snapper closures, while a new spin on the house’s iconic lip print on a green and blue skirt and top in a Lurex knit created the illusion of a leopard print from afar.
Highlights included a patchwork mini (another twist on the Rykiel stripe); a checked duffel with urban leather patches and a lightweight bonded jersey lining, and a young-at-heart, Sixties-flavored, two-tone indigo-blue corduroy dress coat that can be worn with pants or just a pair of boots, depending on the mood. The navy jacquard fil coupé dress coat edged with embroidery was ultrafeminine. “For me, it’s very French, women would just put on their coats and go to dinner and it was their dress, which I think is still relevant today,” said the designer. “It’s about wearing things differently, a wardrobe that can adapt to your lifestyle and create new silhouettes.”
The line’s animal side also surfaced on the Flore pouch in zebra-print ponyskin, while key footwear styles included the cool and practical Ziggy kitten heel bootie worked in black velvet or striped leather.