Riccardo Tisci has just begun to make his mark on Burberry, so it’s no surprise that he’s traveling the path set out in September, doing women’s and men’s clothing for multiple generations and moments in the day.
Burberry’s chief creative officer said he wanted this collection to be a continuation of the story he began telling earlier this year. “I’m focusing on establishing our codes through archive prints, house colors and iconic outerwear, while cementing the new themes I set out last season.”
Tisci built on his beloved animal motifs: Gorilla faces stared out from T-shirts while unicorns galloped over a padded, silk shawl. A leopard collar curled around the neck of a Dalmatian print car coat while leather bridle straps, a nod to the old Burberry knight-on-horseback logo, adorned trenches and suit jackets. A faux patchwork shearling coat bowed to the house’s new anti-fur policy.
The new TB monogram, which Tisci unveiled earlier this year, was out in force, transformed into dark green camouflage for a hoodie, shorts and a cape, and in a more delicate iterations on scarves, satin skirts and silk blouses. The intertwined TB popped as a big logo on a punchy orange puffer vest, while a shadowy TB motif made its way across men’ shirts and suits.
Following from the runway, Tisci mixed up hard and soft, street and tailoring and toyed with proportions, too. Standouts included a soft-edged trench made from sweatshirt gray jersey, another more structured one with a long, detachable puffer collar and another still that was as fluid as a silk nightgown.
The knitwear was terrific, especially the argyle sweater with the slashed sleeves — that’s Tisci showing his punk colors — and the knits with the stripes across the front, their red-and-white stripes plucked from the Burberry check pattern.