Hussein Chalayan’s collection was filled with beautifully constructed clothes that would fit into any luxury wardrobe: There were asymmetric, lightly draped dresses in striped jersey or dogtooth fabrics; roomy trousers with side pleats or appliquéd panels lightly hanging on the sides; separates in a colorful forest print painted in a Chinese style, and skirts made voluminous with deep, contrasting pleats.

Apart from being a master at draping and creating unique constructions, Chalayan is also curious — and a deep thinker. This season he let his imagination run loose, unpicking the concept of pretending. Every drape, pleat and layer in the new range was informed by his philosophical interpretation of what it means to try to be someone else.

Turning the idea on its head, Chalayan bypassed all the negativity and instead focused on pretending as a catalyst to the imagination or “a medium that can healthily lift us away from our reality, adding richness to the monotony of our lives.” He also broke down the word pre-tension, discovering another alternative meaning of “applying tension to an object before use, to make it stronger.”

Chalayan managed to turn all of that abstraction into reality with clothes inspired by activities that can take the human body away from its mundane existence, such as riding, fetishizing, army life or experiencing nature.

There were elements of riding in the expertly tailored dogtooth blazers with contrasting navy crepe sleeves, while voluminous rainwear was meant to reflect the movement of the body in nature. Draped leather tops or pleated leather skirts had subtle fetishistic references, a concept the designer plans to delve deeper into in the future.

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