Looking to artist Rana Begum’s geometric patterns, optical tricks and fluorescent color palette, Roksanda Ilincic worked up a collection with a sporty-couture feel and a mix of smooth surfaces and rough edges. Highlights included taffeta gowns with pouf sleeves, fabric flower appliqués with frayed edges, and black scribble embroidery.
Other dresses — long and short — were adorned with cutout organza panels and more of those naif embroidered scribbles and looked as if they were designed by freewheeling art students. Another dress had a dramatic cape at the back and was covered with blurry, colored panels. For day, there were pleats and tucks galore on dresses made from long strips of mismatched, patterned fabric, or from lightweight cotton silk gazar in flouro pink or orange.
A pair of cream linen silk trousers came with color-blocked pastel racing stripes down the side, while a tailored jacket was an elegant patchwork of energy drink green and powdery blue. While many of the silhouettes in this upbeat collection were breezy, bright and dreamy, but there was a strictness to this collection, too, in the form of a pea green wool boucle coat and long matching skirt, and a sturdy cream linen one with a flourish of pleats at the back.