Like many designers, Raquel Allegra looked back to the Nineties for inspiration this season, specifically her high school years in which one of her favorite pieces of clothing was a DKNY T-shirt borrowed from a boyfriend. Incorporating the oversize initials “RALA” into one of her slouchy, fine-gauge knit Ts was one of her bolder nods to the decade.

The others came in more subtle fashion: the hero piece, a camouflage tie-dyed mesh anorak; a subtle gradient grey washed silk blouse; or a navy button-front, midcalf-length skirt.

Each season, Allegra finds new ways to manipulate her signature tie-dyed silks and cottons, while copiously layering in new fabrications and updated silhouettes. This season, it was the olive, brown and navy tie-dye masquerading as camouflage that was her starting point, as the earth tones grounded her collection.

Around these mesh and woven pieces, she added layers for underneath such as a Nineties throwback ribbed tank dress, and on top, a quilted cotton olive trench or a sleeveless coppery satin duster. Allegra also offered more luxury-casual looks such as a washed silk blouse and cotton jersey pant work together as a tie-dyed lavender and marigold matching set.

Look for more a more pronounced evolution of the collection for fall, as Allegra has brought on French designer Flavie Webster to add a fresh, female eye to the collection.

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