This was a beautiful collection by Adam Lippes — every fabric, every finishing, every detail highly considered and carefully crafted. The perfect example: the black silk blazer with antique Art Deco crystal buttons lined in silk. “It’s probably my favorite piece,” Lippes said during a preview of the lineup. “I know it’s a black blazer but it’s the quality, the finishing. Our shapes are never crazy.”
True to his point, a lot of the pieces were derived from classics — trenches, jumpsuits, shirting, handknits — elevated with special details, like floral prints done from blown up, blurry 35-mm. expired film, and a silk cotton peasant dress with a full skirt and accentuated waist. But he also pushed big, fantastical volumes on dresses, gowns and even a cape that had a folkloric, fairy-tale quality inspired by Roberto Peregalli interiors. The lace on a white embroidered tulle dress — voluminous pleats strung from delicate spaghetti straps — was some of the prettiest seen this season. The eveningwear was ultra-feminine, girlish even but handled with sophistication so that an adult woman could wear it without feeling infantile.
Lippes knows what his woman wants. He’s done 20 store visits all over the country — Chicago, Dallas, Pennsylvania, etc. — in the past eight weeks, meeting his customers in the flesh, learning who they are, what they want. They have places to go, enjoy dressing up in luxury for the occasion but want something that not everyone else has. Lippes delivers.