Alejandra Alonso Rojas combined a lot of strategic decisions with her first pre-fall collection. She showed it in her TriBeCa pop-up shop, which is open through the end of December, and approached the collection as a capsule, not in the sense that it was small, but that it focused on establishing what she considers the core of her two-year-old collection — elegant suiting, hand knits, bias-cut eveningwear. She’s limited her seasons to resort, pre-fall and fall, which she sees as the best seasons to delve into knits. She took the opportunity to develop sustainable, all-natural dyes, using indigo, turmeric, blackberries and red cabbage to engineer her own formulas. The results were impressive, ranging from rich to delicate on groups of slipdresses, jackets, skirts and knits. “It was kind of like chemistry,” she said of developing the dyes. “It’s all proven, I swear, with dry-cleaning and everything.”

The collection was a beautiful display of her eye for color, including her signature crimson red and champagne, and soft femininity handled with a modern restraint. Standouts included a color-blocked red and champagne wrap dress, micro-pleated eveningwear and suits done with matching bra tops.

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