Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar start each collection with fabric and the question of “What is new romance?” For pre-fall, the answer was in branching out from their signature storybook florals and finding inspiration in men’s wear, specifically plaids and tweeds. They worked with meaty, colorful yarns to create lofty tweed jackets and skirts in lean silhouettes. “It was about masculinizing but not leaving the florals,” said Brock, noting that was also the focus of their new shoe collection, which featured flat, mannish boots to complement and ground the femininity of the clothes.
Brock’s antique wallpaper jacquard florals were still well-accounted for on dresses with peplums, boning and raw edges. But Vassar noted that they really sought to bring the dreamy quality of the label’s ethos into a modern wardrobe. “We want to be really smart about what we’re delivering, so more separates and cardigan-like evening jackets that can be worn to dinner over jeans,” she said. Indeed, the lineup’s controlled silhouettes in lavish fabrics were the savvy way to turn the fairy tale into a reality.