Cédric Charlier is back on the industry’s show schedule and, simultaneously, resuming pre-season collections. The designer went with his strengths, which include a great color sensibility and architectural inclinations, merged with a preppy British aesthetic.
Charlier expanded upon the equestrian narrative for which he started last fall — he was a horseman for years before focusing on design — offering heritage checks through outerwear and bottoms that served as the more classical complements to soft, fluid dresses and blouses. Take, for instance, a red checkered jacket over a handkerchief skirt with sharp lines, or the ultra-cool oversized green plaid poncho paired unexpectedly with a bright blue pleated skirt and Mary Janes that featured matching fetishistic long socks.
The designer approached the casualization of fashion with a sophisticated and modernist hand. An off-white hoodie was cut asymmetrically, knitwear was enhanced with scarf ties or gradient stripes, and short-sleeve tops and dresses were cut in lightweight faux leather. The designer maintained an extreme attention to detail. For example, silky shirtdresses had darts to create the perfect untucked drape, and zipper ties accented the backs of coats to unveil contrasting fabric. There were purely playful items, too, like an impossibly charming hot pink denim set.