Jonathan Simkhai swirled all of his categories — ready-to-wear, swim and new lingerie — into his pre-fall lineup. Inspiration gleaned from a trip to Morocco resulted in an overarching theme of disco glamour and rich color derived from turmeric gold and bougainvillea pink and magenta to tie everything together, though there was diversity in the range. Many styles came with built-in lingerie layering pieces that solved the problem posed by wanting to create a louche look without struggling to find slips and underpinnings in the right lengths, colors and fabrications. For example, a magenta slipdress was layered over a lace turtleneck slip and a blazer came with a detachable camisole underlayer.
“I think it’s a nice thing,” said Simkhai of the pre-styled looks. “I’ve seen things like jackets with sweatshirts that you can zip out. I kind of love and hate the idea, but I thought it was interesting. How do I make it elevated and sexy? By building in the slips and lingerie.”
Lounge-y glamour came in blush-toned jacquard pajamas and a shimmery blazer and matching shorts. And if there’s such a thing as day-to-night swimwear, Simkhai’s retro glamour shapes could take you from the pool to the club depending on how one styled them.