Landscapes of California were noted as inspiration for St. John’s latest collection, but it didn’t seem to extend beyond the palette of navy, earth and desert tones or a few of the brand’s great, easy-going staples — swingy trousers, a knit poncho.

Animal prints, African-textile-inspired basket weave trim, hand-beaded crystals and chain straps made for a hodgepodge of the rest of the collection’s ready-to-wear, with hummingbird-, bee- and butterfly-inspired jewelry to top it all off. Alone, a graphic, floor-length zebra jacquard dress or modern, tonal leopard suit set made for the strongest of the lot but as a collection, it was a lot. The pivot from spring’s minimalism to pre-fall’s more tricked-out lineup was due to the brand’s desire to more directly reach their younger clientele, who often enters through their eveningwear. The brand also noted that as of pre-fall, they are officially discontinuing the use of exotic animal skins and fur — although there was no faux for in sight for the collection either.

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