Victor Glemaud’s pre-fall collection, titled “Notes on Style,” was a jubilant return to color along with innovative takes on knitwear. His last collection was a muted palette of black and white, and though impeccably cut, lacked the vibrancy that has become the brand’s hallmark.
Glemaud drew on his Caribbean roots for color and showed how knitwear, in nuanced variations, is just as reasonable a proposition for warm weather — the first delivery, after all, hits stores beginning in summer. Beach-y knit gowns cut with graphic, sharp lines, along with flirty crop tops and open-weave bodysuits maintained a breathable element apropos for the heat. A rainbow Saga fox fur blanket and mink bucket hat were arguably for chilly beach nights. A thread of ease highlighted the collection’s approachability.
Glemaud also referenced his time growing up and going out in Eighties New York. A vintage tinge could be registered in semi-transparent crochet flared pants, biker shorts shown on guys and gals, and the saturated pinks. He rounded out the range with playful trompe l’oeil, including a great black-and-white dress with the appearance of a low draping slip.
Glemaud thanks Tim Lawrence’s book “Love Saves the Day” for driving him toward a path of exuberant self-expression. “I’m putting myself more into the collection, being more vulnerable,” he said. “I celebrate fashion. I love fashion.”