Inspired by heavy metal’s dark yet pacifist message, Gabriele “Bebe” Moratti added touches of nonchalance to his sensual register for pre-fall.
Silk crepe dresses for day, in a deep red leopard print or with a black-and-white fleur de lis motif, were given batwing sleeves that relaxed the silhouette. A long black knit dress with Lurex threads and flared sleeves was among the standouts.
Straight skirts with belt strap details or lacing and fake fur capes and coats in a zebra print were more literally rock ‘n’ roll, but there were also some strong, less statement greatcoats, jeans — a growing category for the label — and boyfriend blouses with a more understated look.
Eighties-inspired draped jersey dresses with a subtle sheen evoked comfort while fitting the form for evening, offered alongside the label’s signature tuxedo suits in sequins or velvet.
Jewelry and corset-style belts in ecological leather were new categories for the season as Redemption, which skipped couture this month to focus on preparing its fall collection, continues to expand its offer.