Ben Taverniti continued to explore his fascination with the hourglass shape for Unravel pre-fall 2019, but this time in a more DIY manner. “I worked with oversize men’s pieces and played around with them, adding pin tucks and twisting pieces to create a very feminine shape,” the designer said. Case in point, a simple men’s skate T-shirt was given a new volume by adding a waistline and cutting pieces of fabric out of the front.

The collection was based around the opposition of sport versus sophistication, illustrating the designer’s dual culture: Born in Toulouse, France, Taverniti started his fashion career in Paris but moved to Los Angeles 15 years ago.

Waists were heavily cinched, even on unexpected pieces. A bomber jacket was structured thanks to a nipped-in waistline, while a gray Prince-of-Wales suit looked fresh thanks to an elegant black PVC corset, worn slightly oversize so as to not constrict the body.

Bright colors — different shades of yellow, eye-popping red, sky blue — added to the modernity of the looks. Jeans were specifically cut on a men’s shape to get the ultimate masculine leg, but Taverniti elevated the waistband for it to sit perfectly on a woman’s body. A stand out piece was a denim down jacket; it had the texture of denim, but, thanks to down lining, none of the weight.