Zuhair Murad’s mind went to Japan for this collection loaded with floral motifs. The designer referenced work by artist Tsuguharu Foujita in the Twenties, with his east-meets-west perspective; Poiret’s kimono silhouettes, and Araki’s photographs.
The ornate pre-fall line was divided into numerous interlocking themes, including “Hokusai scenery.” This featured what resembled watercolor landscapes in pastel hues on numerous looks, such as the obi-belted trousers ensemble and mini or floor-length dresses in silk twill.
The “vintage blossoms” section took a wabi-sabi — nothing’s perfect — approach to flowers, which were partly decayed and popping up on the likes of a long fil coupé V-neck dress with a dark background.
But the overall allure was tough in this evening-leaning collection, with the designer incorporating a lot of leather, as well as black and red color schemes.
Lending a graphic aspect were pieces featuring a tattoo and temple theme. Here, tulle was embroidered for a long, off-one-shoulder dress, giving a barely there effect. Cutout velvet embroideries appeared on stretch wool or chiffon bases in black or red — meant to be reminiscent of a Nippon sunrise — for dresses, shirts and trousers.