Susana Clayton has been settling into her new creative director role at Joseph and starting to refine the brand’s vocabulary, polishing existing signatures and introducing new ones.

The play between masculine and feminine, and French and British style, has been central to Clayton’s vision for the brand. For pre-fall she delved further into those contrasts, bringing together references ranging from the British outdoors and David Bowie to French insouciance and minimalist, urban interiors.

“It’s about balancing the duality of the brand. Joseph himself had a strong French spirit, but explored the brand in the U.K.,” said Clayton.

Cue an array of tweed tailoring and cool, voluminous outerwear that had a more masculine feel than in the past, as well as some softer, cozier pieces that belonged in the British countryside. These ranged from a statement poncho, to tailoring done in double-faced wool for extra comfort and head-to-toe knit looks in soft, biscuit tones.

Elsewhere, Clayton wove in more feminine elements in the form of pleated midi skirts in baby pink, silk separates in a print that mirrored the pattern of tweed fabrics, or a patent leather vest cinched at the waist.

Clayton’s ability to create a cool, fashion-forward look using such recognizable wardrobe staples made this collection a winner. She did so by way of tone-on-tone layering and adding just the right amount of volume on each piece.

“I think oversize is not a relevant word for us. It’s more about adding volume on softer, loose pieces and putting comfort first,” she added.

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