Alessandro Michele is a designer who likes to develop consistent and elaborate narratives. Over the past few years he has proven that he doesn’t feel the need to jump from one message to another season after season. His pre-fall collection confirmed this signature attitude, defining Michele not only as a rule-breaker but also an authentic brand and image builder.

The spring 2020 show marked a turning point for the designer, who shifted his flamboyant, heady and madcap aesthetic into more restrained and simpler territories.

“The pre-fall 2020 collection is the next chapter after the September show. It tells the same story about proportion, silhouette and, above all, the balance between shape and color,” said Michele, referring to the studied combination of fairly essential lines and eye-catching tones including, for example, the vibrant red of a streamlined Seventies leather suit, the bright orange of a polished cocoon cape and the vivid lime green of a double-breasted damier jacket with wide lapels matched with a cream-white pleated skirt and bold purple suede boots.

In keeping with his approach, the collection, which was photographed by Bruce Gilden, focused more on defining particular human characters rather than following more traditional merchandising formulas. This strategy helped convey that sense of free-spirited eclecticism that has become deeply connected with Gucci’s image in the Michele era.

This season the human identities portrayed in the collection stood out more for their sophistication than their quirkiness. In fact, the collection included a range of smart, covetable pieces, such as a chic loden pleated coat; a refined white textured suit — its jacket featuring a detachable cape detail; a fun shearling maxi coat with a magnified houndstooth pattern, as well as a range of metallic dresses, spanning from sequined gowns to liquid velvet mini frocks.

Already explored for spring, Michele’s take on sexiness returned with lingerie details, plunging necklines, risky cutouts and high slits. Offering his interpretation of the renowned Gucci sex appeal as imagined in the Nineties by Tom Ford, Michele proved that his Gucci girls can not only amaze but also charm.

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