Lucie and Luke Meier presented another strong collection for Jil Sander that continued to play with masculine and feminine contrasts.
Minimalism is key to the Jil Sander DNA, and the Meiers are exploring ways to make it relevant for today’s women. One way is the delicacy that characterizes their work. For pre-fall, this was reflected in the broderie anglaise that punctuated both a white shirt with a detachable sweet collar and a rigorous zippered black coat, but also in the sculptural, corsetry-inspired necklines of frocks.
Oversize padded outerwear pieces, dégradé mohair dresses and dramatic devoré velvet styles conveyed a sense of coziness and comfort, which resulted in pieces injected with urban practicality, such as a jersey zippered top matched with coordinating pants and a shirtdress crafted from an organic banana fiber fabric with a papery effect.
Working mainly in a palette of solids, the Meiers experimented with the geometric patterns of late Austrian artist Maria Lucia Stadlmayer, which they printed on sheer fabrics that they layered to create intriguing optical illusions.
The overall sense of polished, yet a bit intellectual, elegance was enhanced by the accessories, including statement metallic bijoux and bags with slick silhouettes.