For this sophisticated and commercially savvy collection, Alessandro dell’Acqua refreshed the house’s signature feminine aesthetic with a mannish, British-inspired twist.

Prince of Wales and Harris Tweed trench coats were treated with couture sensibility to create volume when belted at the waist, while boxy pantsuits crafted from the same fabrics revealed folds on the back highlighting the feminine silhouette.

There was a sense of toughness in the chunky yet lightweight knitwear, including a ruby piece with unexpected cutouts that felt refreshing. It counterbalanced the lineup’s romanticism conveyed through an all-over butterfly motif printed on a fluid long dress. A series of monochrome blouses – featherweight pleated skirts and frilled tank frocks, all worked in a powdery palette of pink, light blue and pistachio – felt utterly delicate.

Although these elements offered convincing yet safe basics, it was a signature Rochas roomy dress that stole the spotlight, in both an acid green tone and in a soirée version made of fil coupe layers. A black velvet column dress with crystal embroideries of dandelion and butterfly motifs ultimately sealed dell’Acqua’s mastery in telegraphing the brand’s couture heritage through simplicity and subtle details.

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