Something old, something new — and pops of blue: Stella McCartney upped her game this season with a fierce focus on sustainable fabrics, classic weaves, detail — and old-fashioned glamour.
She said every single piece of the collection needed to serve a purpose — and to last — and added that her approach was about “dismantling” classic or vintage styles and “remantling” them with a modern edge, making the pieces “just as relevant to 2020, as they are to 1920 and even 2030.”
Long top coats and peacoats had oversize, mismatched buttons that looked if they’d been swiped from old clothes, while a camel topper with black patch pockets, had a lived-in, vintage feel. Fluid cape-coats and cape-trenches added lots of drama, as did a camel coat with rounded shoulders and long, swooshing fringes at the back.
“Downton Abbey” character Lady Edith would have just loved the Twenties dress with a blue satsuma print and contrasting panels at the waist and hem, or the long fringing on a little shawl, or an oversized cobalt blue knit.
McCartney also thrust tailoring under the spotlight: Having trained on Savile Row, and with her own closet packed with mannish suiting, tailoring always plays a big role in her world.
This season, it was even bigger with looks including an olive safari suit, with wide-leg trousers and an elongated jacket. Another softly tailored pairing was made from environmentally friendly faux leather perforated to resemble lace. Even the simplest of suits had lovely little touches, such as slightly pouffed shoulders, or rounded notches at the waists of jackets and coats.
McCartney also made big strides on the sustainability front, creating biodegradable fur coats from plant-based materials such as corn and crafting eco-friendly stretch denim made with mushroom and seaweed dyes. That latter fabric is known as Coreva and is made by the Candiani denim mill.
Even the dangly, heart-shaped earrings were made from traceable, sustainable wood sourced in Sweden.
Stella’s men’s collection mirrored the women’s, and included patterned overcoats with a new and very cool geometric “S” motif, and rounded notches at the waist and work wear trousers patched with her environmentally friendly faux leather, known as Alter Nappa. There was lots of organic denim, too, as well as nubby sweaters with slashed holes at the elbow.